From the Mate’s vineyard across the road from the winery in Kumeu, West Auckland – the top level Chardonnay produced by this iconic label. Showing some bottle age colour in the glass – a glossy lemon-straw colour, but the aromatics on the nose are still bright and vivacious. Golden peach, ripe pear, mandarin and grapefruit, with a cardamom, nutmeg and vanilla spice notes. Acidity is good – these wines are always briskly acidic on release, but made to last – and well integrated. The palate is a little broader now, with a good concentration of stonefruit, and citrus;, but some of the drive and flow so intrinsic to this lauded wine is falling away now, as old age sets in. Balance is fine – oak is still framing the picture, and dash of minerality underlines the lush core. Texture is appealing too – creamy and svelte. The finish is immaculate – long, with a delicate balance of sweet and drying characters. 94pts. (I’d be drinking this wine around the eight year mark for my personal preference, and this one just on its way down the curve, for me).
Kumeu River Matés Chardonnay 2008
