Ralph Hochar is the third generation owner of Chateau Musar – a family-owned winery in Lebanon, on the eastern side of the Mediterranean Sea – the crossroads between Asia and Europe. A small country – you could fit 25 of Lebanon into the size of New Zealand – but with an ancient wine history. The Lebanese (and their ancestors – the Phoenicians) can date their winemaking back 6000 years. And Canaan is where Jesus Christ is said to have made water into wine – and that is in Lebanon! So definitely an Old World part of the planet.
The Turkish Empire had ruled Lebanon since the 15th Century, but after the First World War Lebanon became a French Colony, and Gaston Hochar founded the Estate in 1930. The first vineyards were planted in the Bekaa Valley with his cousin, with many of the early sales of wine to French soldiers stationed in the country. The label of Chateau Musar hasn’t changed in all that time, but today we’re looking at some more recent wines and they do have much more modern, colourful designs – to match the style of wine.
Chateau Musar Jeune Rosé 2018 is a coppery golden pink in the glass. A mature age for a rosé wine, it hasn’t lost its brightness or perfume. The orange hue flows through with aromatics of mandarin peel and apricot, plus more exotic notes of guava and pomegranete, then tones of red capsicum and cranberry. A gentle spice on the palate and a lean towards some negroni-like phenolic, tannin and astringency. This was matched with a raw salmon and avocado tartlet – delicious.
I have to say that the Chateau Musar Jeune Red 2019 was not my favourite. An un-oaked crunchy style of red, made with Cabernet Sauvignon, Cinsault and Syrah varietals. This was raspy and rustic, with bloody fruit bleeding into the palate. A touch of warm earth minerality develops but there’s a lack of harmony here – all a bit edgy and disjointed.
Moving swiftly on. Chateau Musar Hochar Père et Fils Red 2018 presents a more palatable style of young claret red. A dense carmine red colour, with a familiar ‘old world’ patina of new leather, blackcurrant, cedar, raspberry, kirsch and bubblegum. 50% Cinsault, with Grenache and Cabernet Sauvignon tends towards a bold and ripe expression in the palate, but very smoothly balanced. A punchy, mint and chocolate flecked finish of reasonable length. A new wine to me, and impressive for a mid-priced offering. A canapé of Venison Tartare was an inspired match for this.
Of course, what the label is really known for is their flagship wine, and both the current release Chateau Musar 2016 and a library wine Chateau Musar 2000 that has been opened to demonstrate the staying power of this iconic wine do not disappoint. Not to be crass and go on about pricing, but the retail cost of this wine – which has often seemed to me to rank alongside many 3rd growth Bordeaux in terms of style and quality – is top value. The 2016 has a deep, dark pulse of black fruits, with the cassis top note accented by damson, boysenberry, date and liquorice. Stylish and succulent it has great concentration, and some power through the palate. The finish has an almost manuka honey prickle and depth to it.
The older bottle has matured impeccably. A ruby-mahogany colour in the glass, with a distinctive smoky perfume. Some savoury flavours underline the dark fruits, with tapenade, baking spices and nori. Again, there is plenty of concentration and vigour – even a slightly tangy acidity still pulsing through the palate. This drive adds balance and energy to the wine, sailing smoothly into a juicy, lengthy finish.
