Other than the ‘Annual Chardonnay Collection’ – that showcases the best wines of any vintage – that I have been reviewing for the last three years; December 2020 was the last time that I sat down and went through a selection of wines in Hawke’s Bay. On that occasion I looked at Syrah and Chardonnay alongside Hugh Crichton. There has also been a selection of WineFolio Top 10 Tastings in the time since… looking at Bordeaux-style varietals and Syrahs – so it made sense to me to ask to look at any new things coming out of the Bay.
A big shout out to Sarah White and Brent Linn from Hawke’s Bay Winegrowers for organising this. I know from arranging my own tastings what a mission it can be to get a collection of bottles together from people who are all very busy, in one place at one time. So credit is due to them. And a thank you to Paritua for hosting me at their beautiful boardroom. I try not to get distracted by the view.
The wines are already arranged in a logical order by Sarah, and I taste all the wines blind, making notes as I go. I only pull the bottle from its bag at the end of each flight. Context is then applicable, as I look through my tasting notes and have a think about how those relate to the bottle in hand. For example, did my scribbles indicate that this was, in fact, a Viognier. I never go back and ‘change my opinion’ on seeing a label, but, at the very least, learning the varietal, or vintage, or blend, afterwards can add an extra layer to your thoughts.
We’ll start with whites, then dive into the reds. I score as I go, at the end of the notes. The report on the reds will be in Part 2 of the article – stay tuned.
Decibel Giunta Pinot Gris 2024 is a rose gold colour in the glass. A generous, ripe bouquet has honey, pineapple, ginger and freshly cut pear. The golden continues into the palate, which is smooth, elegant and lightly spicy. A dry finish rounds out a treat start to the day. I’d be happy to have a glass of this with a meal anywhere. 91pts. The same label is up next – Decibel Giunta Crispy White 2024 – a white blend that I have had in previous vintages, and enjoyed. The blend for 2024 is 32% Pinot Gris, 32% Sauvignon Blanc, 21% Chenin Blanc and 15% Albariño. A pale lemon-green colour in the glass. The perfume has an inviting sappiness to it, with green herbs, lime, nectarine, preserved lemon and even a little white smoke on the nose. A bright zing of acidity gives lots of energy and movement in the palate. A touch of phenolic adds complexity, before a smooth, oatmeal character and texture envelop the back of the palate. A grassy, juicy finish ends sweeter and very refreshing. 91pts
I pick in my tasting notes the varietal of the next wine – Church Road Editions #2 Viognier 2020, but it certainly fits into the ‘new wine’ category for this session. It’s not a label I have seen before. However, a Church Road McDonald Series Viognier 2019 did win the Winefolio Top 10 Tasting of “Other Whites” back in 2022, so I know that Viognier from Church Road has some pedigree. The ‘bright as a button’ colour has a golden glow in the glass. It is VERY aromatic, with just a green tinge to the nose. Grassy, juicy, then almost briney and prickly into the back of the palate. Lime zest and crushed herbs on the finish. Very interesting glass of wine. 92pts
Albariño is really making a mark. I saw a few in Gisborne earlier in the week, and I’ll go on to taste more with Ollie Powrie the day after this. Smith & Sheth CRU Heretaunga Albariño 2024 is a pale straw yellow colour, and has a light but energetic aroma of lemon, hay, peach and pea pod. Salivatingly dry and salty to taste. The acidity is racy and tight, and the palate has a cordial juiciness. A tart, sweet and sour note to the finish. 91pts
Jenny Dobson ‘Florence’ Fiano 2023 showcases exactly the sort of ‘emerging varietal’ that isn’t something you come across every day… and was what I’d hoped to see. It isn’t a million miles away from the Albariño previously, with a touch more golden body and weight. Apple, citrus and lemon blossom florals on the nose. Zesty acidity gives a brightness through the palate, and finishes with a pithy, dry edge. 92pts. A wine I have seen before is Trinity Hill Marsanne/Roussanne Gimblett Gravels 2024. A pale green-gold in the glass. A youthful perfume shows pear, nectarine, grapefruit, almond, nutmeg and jasmine floral notes. Bags of energy on the palate, where the juicy fruit is complemented by a tangy acidity. It also has an ‘al dente’ texture, with dry phenolics that contrast well with the voluptuous flavours. 93pts
Decibel Giunta Chardonnay 2024 is a wine that I think, at first, could be a blend. Such is the balance and then the tropical fruit salad flavours, that it is quite an exotic glassful. I do settle on Chardonnay though, and it has ripe, rich fruit that surely bodes well for the 2024 wines from the region. A smoky incense and spice fills the nose as you then travel through the palate, to a dry finish with fine persistence. 93pts. There’s more to come from the vintage, starting with Paritua Willow Chardonnay 2024. A pale golden-green tone in the glass, the nose showing a pretty cardamom and vanilla baking spice combo. It’s is very Hawke’s Bay. Balanced but quite straightforward, with lots to see but nothing sticking up out of place. A splendid length on the finish. 94pts
Askerne Reserve Chardonnay 2024 is the latest bottling of a wine that has been an ever-present in all of those Annual Chardonnay collections that I mentioned. The perfume is bold and ripe with peach, lemon, grapefruit and even a little jalapeño. The zing of acidity gives great line and length through the palate. A touch of ‘old school’ richness as well, but it wears it well, and I like that. 94pts. A vineyard that I visited back in 2020 is the source of Easthope Family Winegrowers ‘Home Block’ Chardonnay 2024, but I think it is the first time I’ve had a Chardonnay from the site. The colour is very light, but it is quite bold on the nose. Lemon, dried pineapple, popcorn, nectarine, toasty oak and spices galore. Intense and concentrated into the palate, with a fine balance across juice, oak and acidity. A very well-made example, and the time you can still taste it after the finish hints at a long life ahead. 95pts.
I finish the line of Chardonnays with a Smith & Sheth CRU Heretaunga Chardonnay 2023. A powerful bouquet has a distinctive oatmeal note, alongside familiar nectarine, grapefruit, apple and lemon. It delivers in spades across the palate, with a powerful, vibrant richness and juiciness. There is spicy oak, but swallowed by the fruit, and it is another with an excellent persistence. 94pts. The last white is Easthope Family Winegrowers ‘Two Terraces’ Chenin Blanc 2023, and it has aromas that are delicate but elegant. Aromatic and peppery, with a slight herbal astringency that cuts through the plush stonefruit and citrus flavours. Savoury green olive, fennel and nettle also emerge on a second sip. Some lovely phenolic bite too. 92pts
Part two will feature the reds, running from new varietals to new versions of some classics. Look back next week.
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