Major thanks are due to Sarah White and Brent Linn from Hawke’s Bay Winegrowers for organising a tasting of wines for me on my recent trip down to the region. I know from arranging my own tastings at WineFolio what a mission it can be to get a collection of bottles together from people who are all very busy, in one place at one time. So credit is due to them. And a thank you to Paritua for hosting me at their beautiful boardroom, with a view over the vines. It made sense to me to ask to look at any new things coming out of the Bay – both new releases and new varietals making their mark.
The wines have been arranged in a logical order by Sarah, and I taste all the wines blind, making notes as I go. I only pull the bottle from its bag at the end of each flight. Context is then applicable, as I look through my tasting notes and have a think about how those relate to the bottle in hand. For example, did my scribbles indicate that this was, in fact, a Merlot. I never go back and ‘change my opinion’ on seeing a label, but, at the very least, learning the varietal, or vintage, or blend, afterwards can add an extra layer to your thoughts.
This is part two of the session – the reds. I score as I go, at the end of the notes. I wrote about the white wines last week – see here > www.winefolio.co.nz/?p=12642
A lighter weight start to the other side of the table. A bold magenta/purple colour in the glass, Jenny Dobson ‘Mac’ Merlot 2024 has a bright, coltish perfume of cherry, bramble and boysenberry. Crunchy fruit, with plenty of energy through the spicy palate. There is tannin, but it is made in a fresh, chill-able style. Think Beaujolais Cru, without the foxyness of Gamay. 90pts. A bit of a contrast is the Askerne CSM 2023. From a single vineyard, it is a blend of a couple of rarer grapes – Carmenere and Mourvedre, plus Syrah. A dark ruby colour, with a tangy bouquet of raspberry, cherry and negroni. Smooth and sleek on the palate, with a few savoury edges, but I’m not getting much tannin, or oak, even. Just a lovely balm-like softness. This slips down too easily. 92pts
There is a touch of familiarity to the next glass that I pour blind. Paritua Single Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2021 was in the Top 10 of the Bordeaux varietals tasting at Winefolio in 2024. Cassis, plum, tobacco, orange peel and blackberry merge together in an elegant balance, a creamy texture, and into a dry finish. Along the way there is some heroic tannin on offer – really good grip and structure. 94pts. Askerne Barbera 2024 has me fooled at first – I’m thinking Pinot Noir. But I console myself with the fact that this is a fairly uncommon varietal! Light, with a super personality. Some green, sappy notes alongside spices and an agile, crisp acidity. Another one you could definitely pop in the fridge. 90pts
Trinity Hill Gimblett Gravels Tempranillo 2022 has a robust aroma – broodingly dark and spicy, with plum, liquorice, raspberry, pepper, pumpkin, iron earth and violet florals. Supple, lengthy tannins and a zing of acidity gives generosity through the palate. A juvenile, with probably a decade of development ahead. 94pts. Church Road Editions #4 Cabernet Franc 2023 is another of the new labelling. A dense purple colour, with a fresh, peppery nose. A youthful tension to the palate – even a little prickle to it. Tannin, acidity and juicy fruit is all there, a little heat on the finish doesn’t detract too much. 92pts
Mission Estate Reserve Cabernet Franc 2020 is a near-black purple tone in the glass. The bouquet is smoky and musky – intriguingly so, with incense and savoury notes coming through along with some ripe doris plum. A tightness to the dry palate seems to come from the tannin, contrasting with the plush fruit. Has promise though, and the ’20 vintage was excellent. More to come from this one I think. 91pts for now. Paritua Stone Paddock Cabernet Franc 2021 is a more approachable glassful right now, with the fruit making more presence felt through the palate, and with a light, delicate balance. There is a root beer, savoury earthiness as well. The fine tannins build and provides structure around which the fruit flavours flow. 93pts
Smith & Sheth CRU Syrah 2021 has power-packed aromas of red berries, morello cherry, pepper and bonfire. A crunchy edge to the palate, with spice and herbs in layers of interest. Some oak shows, and forms the backbone along with raspy tannins. Should develop well, and mellow with a few years in your cellar (or mine!) A long finish. 93pts. A lighter colour to the next wine – Jenny Dobson ‘Doris’ 2021. A blend of Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Malbec shows a smoky, spicy bouquet. Elderberry, raspberry, damson plum and exotic florals. That spice on the nose follows through to the palate. Serious tannin lies in wait, but the juiciness persists and takes the win. 90pts
Mission Estate Reserve Malbec 2020 is another one that has some seriously dark colour in the glass. An old-school teeth-staining style. The perfume has black fruits, herbs and violets. The palate is little blocky, with keen acidity and plucky tannin in tandem. Not shy, this bold wine has plenty of potential, showing a good persistence on the finish. 91pts. Decibel Malbec 2023 has a bouquet filled with plum, liquorice, blackberry and star anise notes that are a signature of the grape. A backbone of glossy fruit, stretchy tannin and a measured clip of acidity. The well-balanced finish has spice and savoury flavours flowing though. 92pts
Church Road ‘1’ Gimblett Gravels Malbec 2022 shows more black density, with an inky colour and brooding boysenberry, cassis, plum, tobacco and vanilla flavours on the nose. Youthfully energetic, with a bright bounce into the palate. Also quite savoury beside that plush fruit, with nori, mint and tapenade. Intensely concentrated, it may need a couple of years to really unfurl and for the blocky tannin to integrate. Still, 92pts though. The last wine is Church Road Editions #1 Tempranillo 2019 from the Redstone Vineyard. An inviting nose filled with a rush of orange peel, cardamom, date, mocha and even bacon fat, alongside ripe red berries. Supple, powdery tannin and a juiciness throughout, ending in a rich, cocoa-like sweetness and texture. Another good regional interpretation of Tempranillo, with a spicy, rich and succulent finish. 93pts
