Esses Estate is the only vineyard in the Kaikoura township, sitting at the base of Mt Fyffe. The 20-year old vines in their small 1.5ha vineyard sit in stony soils that take in the days heat and with the sea breezes providing cooling influences, enjoy a particularly long ripening period.
Owners Mel and Aaron Skinner only make Méthode Traditionnelle wines. Each of their vintage wines takes approximately 5 years to create. Méthode Traditionnelle is the same process used by Champagne producers, but only wines made within the strict boundaries of the Champagne region can use the name ‘Champagne’ on the product. All other premium sparkling wine producers use the term Méthode Traditionnelle.
The first year is spent making a high quality still wine, which is then bottled and undergoes a secondary fermentation with the bottle. It is then left to mature for a minimum of 36 months, during which time it goes through a process of ‘autolysis’ that adds complexity and richness to the wine. It is a labour-intensive technique that is recognised for producing the most refined, complex, and age-worthy examples of sparkling wine.
Their current range is impressive in its breadth, and I was lucky enough to taste through all the wines below:
The Essential NV Brut Cuvée was harvested on the first day of Covid-19 lockdowns in 2020. A cream biscuit notes in the aroma alongside elderflower, lemon peel, toffee and ginger. A calm and focussed expression, quite light and clean through the palate. The bubble has a fine mousse and creaminess, which balances well with the crisp acidity.
Reconnection 2018 Vintage Brut Cuvée has 42 months on lees and is made with both Pinot Noir and Chardonnay varietals. The aroma here is a little deeper, with an almond croissant note that is toasty and rounded. At first the acidity on the palate is quite sharp, matching the citrus, apple and herbal flavours, but it swiftly takes a turn that broadens into a luxurious, unctuous mouthfeel.
Millésime 2016 Vintage Brut Cuvée sits for 60 months on lees and then two years in bottle before release. Just 600 bottles made of mostly Chardonnay with just a drop of Pinot Noir. Very bright and zesty perfume, with vibrant bubbles adding to the bright nature. A scent of bread dough, cashew nut, lime juice and peach. This is a conversation around Champagne – when New Zealand can produce wines like this. Very complex, with an energy that is both elegant and vivacious.
There’s only one of these wines that I have tasted before – the Grand Coeur Blanc de Blanc 2015 Vintage Brut Cuvée. As well as the many years on lees, it has at least a year in the bottle which settles it, before release. A floral-led perfume, with honeysuckle, nectarine, baguette, peach and citrus. Quite a refined palate, with a smooth, well-balanced path that is set with a softer acidity and has plenty of warmth – spice, almond butter and toastiness.
At only 633 bottles released, Dame Syme 2014 Vintage Brut Cuvée is their oldest and one of the most limited releases. With over 8 years on lees, the result is the pinnacle of their production to date. A portion of this wine was originally released as Lady Syme, with 55 months on lees. This is now the second release and it has been left on tirage for another 3.5 years for a total of 97 months. The richest, densest one of the tasting. Flavours of melon, pistachio, dried mango and even savoury notes like marmite, soy, button mushroom and camembert vie for attention. The bubbles here are quite fine and mellow. A dry, zesty finish that lasts.
A new wine – Parker 2019 Vintage Cuvée has just been disgorged – I’m amongst the first to taste it. At just 2g of dosage it is super dry and vibrant, with a tight, youthful character. The fruit really shines in this one, with a ying & yang dry to sweetness balance that adds energy and personality to the palate. It’s also quite structured, with maybe a bit more firmness and minerality to it. This has great potential.
The last glass is Encore 2016 Vintage Cuvée – again, a second release of a wine. A lovely aged character, with a quince, orange marmalade, red apple and baking spice depth to both the perfume and following through to the palate. At just 4g of dosage, it is again quite dry, but I could see this as a champagne I could have after dinner, maybe with cheese or the right kind of dessert?
I’m a huge fan of ‘Méthode Marlborough’, a grower-lead society focussing on the world-class sparkling wines from the Marlborough region, that Esses Estate is a member of. It’s amazing that such a range can come from a small vineyard and producer. All very high quality, and everyone lifts on the same tide when a standard such as this is being made.
