A Hawke’s Bay Chardonnay, from a splendid vintage – a return to tasting this epic drop, now at ten years in the bottle. A bright straw colour in the glass – a little of that bottle age showing in the depth of tone. The toast of the oak now outweighs the flinty struck-match that sat originally above the plush stonefruit and citrus flavours. Some of the tension through the palate has dissipated, now replaced with a fatter, more golden, marmalade type generosity. There is still plenty of acidity – it needs it in this full-bodied example. Quite spicy and textural, with a pithy bite and a mealy layer of lees-influence adding depth and mouthfeel. It finishes long and power-packed. Still holding up very well – it might not be improving, but it certainly rates higher than ‘just holding on’. 94pts
Esk Valley Winemaker’s Reserve Chardonnay 2014
