It has been a fairly busy month for WineFolio. Whilst it might be ‘Dry July’ for people who buy into that sort of thing, and the reports of hospitality venues getting closer and closer to calling it quits (are those two related…hmmm?) continue to grow. But for me, the midwinter month has brought some great celebrations, gatherings and events. After another fun-filled week, it’s nice to sit down and know that I don’t have to think about what I’m going to have a drop of on a Friday night…because I’ve had a delivery from laithwaites.co.nz!
One of the pleasures of writing for this subscription service is that I not only have the thrill of opening the box when it arrives – I don’t choose the wines I review… that’s done by the Laithwaites staff. But I also get – every time – at least one wine that I probably wouldn’t have chosen if it was purely down to me. We are creatures of habit and I’ll be found with a Chardonnay in hand. So, to be sent a Fiano or a Chenin Blanc, and wines from less obvious sources like Portugal, is a treat.
These are the wines I have tasted through this July…
Zilzie Butterfly Kiss Rosé 2022 is from Victoria, Australia. Cranberry, white peach, rhubarb, raspberry and pink grapefruit on the nose. Dry and light-bodied, with a crisp acidity. Good line and directness through the palate – the fruit bright and zesty. A hint of pepper and minerality comes through mid-palate, where a silky texture also develops, smoothing out the mouthfeel and leaving you with a long, elegant finish. 89pts
Domaine de Pontfract Cotes de Provence Rosé 2021. A three centuries-old estate in Provence produces this elegant rosé from Grenache, Cinsault and Carignan grapes. A gorgeous pale copper shade of pink in the glass. Aromas of strawberry, peach and redcurrant, with a lovely delicate floral note of lilac on the nose. Silky and juicy but also possessing a seam of minerality, with a quartzy brightness that lights up the palate and lifts the fruit flavours up. 89pts
Credaro Five Tales Pinot Gris 2021 From Western Australia, this is a fresh, vibrant style of Pinot Gris, with the varietal’s distinctive pear, ginger and honey scents. Also lashings of citrus and floral notes of jasmine and orange blossom. A good palate weight, with a mixture of juicy acidity and creamy texture. The flavours swell in a more tropical direction, showing melon, lychee and pineapple, and a bright spiciness. Well-balanced and food-friendly. 88pts
The Golden Prawn Fiano 2022. Fiano can be a little different in Australia compared to the ones in Italy – the fruit showing a more tropical flavour. This one has plenty of ripe golden rockmelon, white peach, and pear, driven by an acidity that is almost sherbert-like (without the fizz, but with a juicy energy). Dry, aromatic and with a fairly broad mouthfeel, there will be a lot of appeal for customers looking for interesting alternatives to something like a Pinot Gris. 90pts
Moss Brothers Moses Rock Chenin Blanc 2023. The wine is named after a local wild horse, and then the nearby surf break (in that order, I believe). A pale green-straw colour in the glass, with some perky aromas – very vibrant and fresh, with lime, honeysuckle, apple, preserved lemon, almond and grapefruit on the nose. The fresh acidity goes well with the dry, pithy character of the palate. Chenin will often show a warmer side of honeycomb and baking spices too – and, sure enough, it is here in layers through the tail end, adding complexity and texture. 90pts
Lobo e Falcao Reserva 2020 A Portuguese wine, from the Quinta do Casal Branco, a 17th century estate north of Lisbon. Perfumed with bramble, mocha, mulberry, black cherries, salami and green herbs. The palate is medium-bodied and immediately smooth and plush. Dark and sweet-fruited – it sits between familiar tastes of french grape varietals, and more exotic native grapes of Portugal that we’re less exposed to. Tannin, oak and acidity complement each other very well – the wine going from juicy and ripe to deep and complex along the way. 89pts
Sevenhill Cellars Inigo Malbec 2021. A malbec coming from Clare Valley’s first winery – built in 1851! A blackened-crimson colour in the glass. Equally dark and dense aromatics, with blackberry, cherry, liquorice, damson, cacao and blueberry. The fruit is succulent, and framed with firm tannin and toasty oak notes. A savoury undertow through the palate complements the sweet juice, with star anise, tapenade and bay leaf. The finish takes those bold flavours and adds a smooth textural quality. 90pts
Angaston Road Growers Merlot 2022. The story is that Mick Gallon of the Macvale Vineyard in Coonawarra is a bit of a local legend – and now his name is on the label of this excellent Merlot from the 2022 vintage. Dark and brooding in the glass, with the signature scents of the varietal – purple plum, blackberry, eucalypt, bay leaf, cherry, bitter chocolate and some vanilla-toast notes from the oak. Medium to full-bodied, with a generosity to the body, helped by supple tannin forming a solid spine. Smooth and succulent, but with a serious edge to it – this could easily age (and improve along the way) for a decade! 93pts
Moss Brothers Cabernet Sauvignon 2021. Western Australia has built a solid following for Cabernet, and this one is from one of those producers who helped build that reputation. Perfumed with raspberry, blackcurrant, plum fruits, but equally strident spice, pepper and savoury flavours. Salami, dark chocolate, cardamom, black pepper, cassia bark and violets. Fine tannin, a dusting of oak fill the gaps in a dense, deep palate, before a generous and satisfying finale. 91pts
Richard Hamilton Cabernet Sauvignon 2020. I love a straight Cabernet Sauvignon. This one from the Hut Block vineyard in McLaren Vale has bags of varietal typicity, with flavours (and scents) of blackcurrant, graphite, menthol, elderberry and pot pourri. The fruit sits forward and the support of oak and tannin is well integrated. A well-judged level of ripeness – succulent and flowing through the palate on a wave of acidity. The finish is smooth and glossy. 92pts
Kilikanoon Baroota Reserve Shiraz 2020. From the home of Australia’s signature grape in South Australia. A full-bodied example, with a rich succulence that is easy to understand and love. Boysenberry, plum, black cherry provide inky, dark flavours with depth. There is a peppercorn and toasted spice note both in the perfume and in a seam throughout. Well-rounded and quite structured – the spine of tannin and oak giving a platform to the splay of lush fruit. At four years of age, this is looking very good right now. 92pts
RedHeads 1888 Barossa Valley Shiraz 2022. A single vineyard Shiraz made with Barossa Valley fruit. Quite a dark shade of red in the glass, and delivers an intense, spicy nose filled with bramble, plum, liquorice and cherry flavours. Balancing the glossy fruit are mint, capsicum and pepper notes. Quite plush and textural, with a mouthfeel that smooths out the spicy beginning and creates balance in the palate. Oak plays a part here, with some vanilla and warmth added to the mix. A fine expression, perfect for winter. 91pts
