Every now and then, there are a set of wines that I hear about, that create a real sense of anticipation. The first products from the next chapter in Sir George Fistonich’s quest to produce the very best of New Zealand’s wines. – under the umbrella of “Fistonich Family Vineyards” fall into that category. People who know me, will know that I am a fan. I followed the progress of Villa Maria closely when I lived in the UK, and have shares in Terra Vitae – the company that runs some of the most famous vineyards that supplies grapes to make some of Villa Maria’s top single-vineyard wines. I’ve long regarded that group of winemakers and viticulture team from the Villa Maria group about ten years ago as a bit of a dream team. As such, I’m extremely keen to get a taste of the new wines and see what industry legend Michelle Richardson has created.
Drawing from the old Esk Valley Winery and vineyard site – that George now owns – plus the famous Cornerstone Vineyard in Hawke’s Bay’s Gimblett Gravels. Add in a new site that hadn’t been on my radar before – Ballochdale Vineyard in the Awatere Valley, and it is a super line-up of places. The first wine to try is from this Marlborough site – Čuvar Iris Sauvignon Blanc 2023. It has a ‘classic’ sense of Awatere style, with a real ‘attack’ on the palate. It has plenty of ‘green’ without being grassy. Cucumber, pea-shoots, lime, florals and jalapeno. A cool-climate style, with salinity and minerality. Fresh and zesty with a sherbert-like energy. This is sensational. What a start.
The legendary Esk Valley vineyard supplies a Chardonnay in the range – Čuvar Iris Chardonnay 2022. A straightforward expression of good Hawke’s Bay Chardonnay, with everything in the right place. Candy apple, nougat, grapefruit and chestnut. A tart drive of acidity and a dry, salivating finish, with a creamy texture in between. Not going to set the world on fire, but think along the lines of a Cellar Selection Villa Maria range.
Up a notch, and quite a bit more serious, is Čuvar Guardian Chardonnay 2021. Made by Hugh Crichton before he landed the Elephant Hill job, and from the well-regarded Lyons Vineyard. This is a power-packed expression, with bright acidity, generous ripe citrus and stone-fruit flavours, plus a delicious chalky, lees-influenced texture running through the palate. An almond cream note at the finish adds more interest.
Čuvar Guardian Rosé 2023 is a splendid example – just the right colour in the glass, but beyond aesthetics it has a crisp prickle of red fruits and tannins. From the Cornerstone Vineyard, using Cabernet Franc with a little ‘Franc funk’ on the palate – adding smoky personality to what is often a bland style of wine. This is dry and peppery, with pink grapefruit coming through at the finish. A fine wine version of Rosé!
Čuvar Malbec Merlot 2022 also hails from the Cornerstone Vineyard. A bountiful perfume sees the Malbec leading, with a richness and spice that the merlot fills in with fleshy elderberry and eucalypt notes. Lots of savoury elements jostle that ripe fruit – olive, tobacco, leather and black pepper. A toothsome texture and a juicy finish show promise for this to age well.
