A wine from North Canterbury – made by the original owners Mike and Claudia Weersing. As the label informs: “Raised by hand and foot, palate and mind. No commercial yeasts, bacteria, enzymes, not finings or filtration are permitted”. In every sense, this is ‘natural winemaking’ – hand-made and unfiltered. An opaque, dark burgundy/terracotta colour in the glass. Fragranced with elderberry, mushroom, cherry, peat, raspberry, incense and rose petal florals on the nose. In a great spot after a dozen years in bottle, this is a wine that has movement and evolution as you watch it open up from a slumber in the bottle. Acidity is keen and saline, forming a tight core with the supple, chalky tannin. Savoury notes of beet, earth, graphite and tapenade emerge, entwined with the plush fruit and highlighted with a lightly spicy element. A plush harmony to the finish, dry and concentrated. Although it is one from the history books, New Zealand Pinot really doesn’t get much better than this. 97pts