Labelled ‘Grand Cru Classé de Graves’, this white wine – 75% Sauvignon Blanc and 25% Sémillon – from Pessac-Léognan is considered one of the world’s greatest white wines. A light straw-lemon in the glass. A refined nose where flavours of nectarine, incense, honeysuckle and yuzu mix with fresh, cooler notes of cucumber, grapefruit and whitecurrant. The palate has a grip and tightness to it that is filled with energy and concentration. An intriguing balance between the fruit, structure and texture ensues. The slatey minerality also adding an extra dimension. So much to unpack – a most complex and compelling wine. At this age, probably at its peak, but could cellar for as long again, adding more secondary character and richness. 96pts