Although this is about the eighth box of wines that I’ve received from Laithwaites – the thrill of opening it up and pulling out the bottles to see what’s inside doesn’t dampen. I’m always really keen to have a look at what’s been sent in each box – I don’t have prior knowledge, so it is really is a discovery session. There’s at least a couple that I feel like opening there and then! I start planning what I’m going to have to eat with each one as well – “ooh a Tempranillo – let’s get a leg of lamb and slow roast that with a spicy, herb crust!” I know – it’s probably not normal! But as much as I love wine, I’m a real foodie as well. New ingredients, new recipes are like new bottles of wine – they get my creativity going.
This box has a couple of whites – including bubbles, and then some reds. It is the middle of winter after all. A trio of Aussies starts with a GSM (it stands for Grenache Shiraz Mourvedre – the classic Rhône red blend) from McLaren Vale. A Petit Verdot/Shiraz from South Australia and an iconic Barossa Shiraz from one of the pioneers. The last red is from Valencia, Spain – a Gran Seleccion Tempranillo with a few years of bottle age. The whites are a Sparkling NV from Salena Estate in South Australia and a Pinot Gris from the Adelaide Hills.
Salena Estate Sparkling Chardonnay-Pinot Noir NV A classic ‘Champagne’ blend of varietals for sparkling wine. The froth of bubbles is delicate and light. An elegant pale gold colour and with a perfume of green apple, lemon peel, redcurrant, apricot, honeysuckle and toasted sourdough. Initially tight and vibrant, there is a rapid evolution of texture that sees the flavours harmonise and gliding across the palate. A joyful, uncomplicated glassful of bubbles. A creamy finish with a balance of dryness and fruit that’s quite mouth-watering. 88pts
Colab and Bloom Pinot Gris 2022 A pale lime-gold in the glass, with lots of varietal typicity in the perfume of freshly sliced pear, lychee, clementine, golden apple, lemon thyme and bush honey. A bright, clean palate sees those plush fruit notes mixing with some gentle spice and a sweetness of baked apricot danish. A generous texture awaits, swaddling the palate and gliding you into a smooth, lengthy finish. 90pts
Boscwood Petit Verdot/Shiraz 2021 A bit of a find, to get a Petit Verdot-dominant blend in a mystery box. Very happy with that. Inkily dark in the glass, on the nose and through the palate. Soft and unctuous, but with a helping of smoky spice through that broad, silky palate. For something so dark, this has a vibrant energy and drinkability straightaway – not as brooding and dense as you’d first think. Some layers of dark chocolate, bay leaf, mint and balsam swoon into view as you go. The finish is juicy, smooth and with good length. 92pts
Richard Hamilton GSM McLaren Vale 2021 A deep crimson red in the glass, with youthful, energetic aromas of black plum, redcurrant and raspberry, with clove and cinnamon spices. Polished and smooth in the palate – the Grenache gives a bright pink bubblegum sweetness, rounded out by the robust and spicy Shiraz and Mourvèdre components. Good oak, great texture – a hallmark expression of South Australia winemaking. 92pts
Palacio del Conde Gran Seleccion 2015 At eight years of age, this mature Tempranillo wine is a mellow wine with the cellaring all done for you! The toasty oak character frames some ripe crimson fruit flavours, plus a savoury element that might include chorizo, pumpkin or cayenne pepper, depending on your mood (or the food with it). The fragrance of cranberry, damson and pomegranete also has vanilla and cinnamon on the nose. Lushly textural, with a softness held in check by some tannic framework. 90pts
Peter Lehmann ‘The Pastor’s Son’ Barossa Shiraz 2020 Quite a rich, decadent style – dark burgundy in the glass, with a ripe aroma of boysenberry, bramble, liquorice, plum, cedar and pepper. Notably sweet as you dive in, but with enough grip of chalky tannin to provide a spine on which that depth of fruit hangs. A lush acidity adds verve and flavour brightness. The finish features more of that signature cracked black pepper. Easy-drinking and soft enough to drink on its own. 88pts
