The 2021 Collection showcases exceptional quality with a range of styles that reflect the unique character of various Hawke’s Bay subregions and are a celebration of their rich winemaking heritage. The 2021 vintage is a true testament to Hawke’s Bay’s reputation as a premier producer of world class wines. Chardonnay continues to be an important regional varietal for Hawke’s Bay with a reputation for quality that is recognised internationally.
Cameron Douglas, MS selected the collection from over fifty wines, and had this to say about the wines from the 2021 vintage: “I’m just going to say it: New Zealand and Hawke’s Bay in particular make some of the best Chardonnay in the world, in fact it’s better than many white Burgundies, more accessible, more affordable, and more consistent. If our Chardonnay continues to be mistaken for high quality white Burgundy in blind tastings, then that alone says something important and special about what we produce.”
Here are my thoughts on the wines included…
Swift Wines Chardonnay 2021 The nose is bright and precise, leading with citrus notes of grapefruit, lemon and white peach. It races along, with some juicy fruit pinned to a pucker of briney acidity that is focussed and lean through the palate. Some delicate green herbals and a crushed shell minerality keep this tight and concentrated right to the finish line. 90pts
Askerne Estate Reserve Chardonnay 2021 Aromas of lemon peel, fennel, cashew, grapefruit, breadcrumbs and apple. A juicy acidity drives through the palate where citrus flavours come to the fore. Good lees-influence that combines nougat and mineral notes, and there is a solid frame of oak. A classy expression, with weight, spice, purity and character. The finish is lip-smackingly dry and pithy. 93pts
Bilancia Kaikora Chardonnay 2021 A pale lemon-gold in the glass. Nashi pear, tarragon, mandarin, hay and green herbal aromatics. Tight and toned into the palate. A bright line of acidity, light touch of oak influence and minerality in spades. Fruit is lush and clean and adds to the intensity – white peach, grapefruit, quince and apricot. The finish is dry and has immense stamina. 93pts
Tony Bish Wines Heartwood Chardonnay 2021 A complex and appealing perfume, with nashi pear, grapefruit, nectarine, quince, ginger and sorrel. A burst of acidity is vivid and delivers excellent flow through the palate, supported by spicy wood notes and some pithy phenolics. The mid-palate brings depth and concentration to the fore, where layers of spices, herbs, preserved lemon and lemon marmalade flavours await. The balance and tension is electric. 94pts
Collaboration Wines Aurulent Chardonnay 2021 A detailed expression, with hazelnut, citrus peel, peach, white pepper and green herbal notes on the nose. Fresh and complex – the palate has power, intensity and accents the texture as much as it does the blooming fruit – turning tropical and rich as it opens. Great harmony – with spice, toasty oak and some oatmeal-like lees all contributing – a wine with real presence. 94pts.
Smith & Sheth CRU Howell Vineyard Chardonnay 2021 A medium straw colour with green tinges. A ripe, full bouquet of lime curd, stonefruit, freshly cut apple, green melon and jasmine florals. Medium bodied, rich and generous in the palate, filled with sweet citrus and then savoury, green olive, verbena and chestnut flavours. A dash of minerality and creamy lees, as a salubrious flick of acidity riffs through the palate, driving a long, drier finish. 95pts
Elephant Hill Earth Chardonnay 2021 Pale lemon-green in the glass, with some flinty wet-stone character on the nose. It has a real elegance to the palate with a distinctive grapefruit pith standing out among some stone fruit, nougat and baking spice. It’s not overblown but it does have some energy and drive plus great length and line. Acid is the key here – tight and fresh, snaking through the palate, with a mile-long finish 95pts
Clearview Estate Reserve Chardonnay 2021 White peach, oatmeal, lime curd, baking spice, roast almond and butterscotch on the nose. A crisp acidity – bright, with plenty of youthful energy. The generous oak frames boisterous citrus and stone fruit flavours, deepening through the mid-palate. A creamy, viscous texture completes a very rounded expression. There is a lovely drying element to the finish, lingering, with real persistence of flavour. 95pts
Church Road 1 Single Vineyard Terraces Chardonnay 2021 An enticing perfume with golden peach, hazelnut, clove, quince, lemon curd and orange blossom. Boldly full-bodied, ripe and power-packed. Some new wood influence – with slate and char notes that are complex mingle with a moderate acidity. Plenty of spice, toasty brioche, dukkah notes, as well as a creamy texture that swaddles the back of the palate. 95pts
Esk Valley Seabed Chardonnay 2021 A pale lemon-green colour with elegant aromatics blooming with grapefruit, white nectarine, almond, mandarin, baguette and a lemon blossom floral note. Fine, vibrant acidity with a juicy saline edge greets the palate. Coiled, muscular and intense. Stonefruit and more tropical flavours of pineapple, fig and ginger develop as the wine unwinds. There’s a toasted oak influence, but sitting quietly at the back. As a contrast to a mealy, plush texture there is a tangy pithyness nestling into the finish. 96pts
Trinity Hill Wines Single Vineyard 125 Gimblett Chardonnay 2021 Aromatically powerful with grapefruit, pistachio, lemon and orange blossom florals. Concentrated and bold – the layers unwind as the energy starts to flow through the palate, framed with full-bodied oak and the succulent acidity drives it at every stage. A creamy texture wraps the components in beautiful harmony, allowing you to appreciate the depth of it. The finish is long and memorable. 96pts
Helio Chardonnay 2021 A shining golden-green in the glass. Aromatically intense – perfumed with sliced pear, grapefruit, cashew, mandarin, honeycomb, tarragon and lemon blossom. A beautiful and immediate snap of citrus acidity bursts onto the palate, setting a vibrant stage for the fruit to shine through. Young, tight and tense, but with a rich, plush concentration. A lean oak note adds depth to the core, leaving space for the other layers of complexity to emerge as the wine unfolds. 96pts
