Every year that I come along to the collaboration between Great Little Vineyards wine merchants and Starkwhite Gallery – The Art of Wine, it is a walk-around tasting of a different level. Each time is different – this year the venue is the Starkwhite Gallery in Newton (one of Auckland’s leading contemporary art spaces) but each year the line up highlights winemakers who are are the top level of their genre. It is always an intriguing and enthusing couple of hours – I’ve never been and failed to find something new.
As organiser Daniel Kemp says: “the event brings wine, art and conversation together in one of Auckland’s leading contemporary gallery spaces.”
I can’t claim to have tried every wine on the table, as usual. There’s far too many people to catch up with that you could think you’d find time to taste everything. The evening is, of course, sprinkled with some exciting new discoveries – and, new finds from old acquaintances in some cases. The list below is a top-level run through of a few highlights, but be assured that the standard across the board is extremely high at this expo – just because I haven’t mentioned it, doesn’t mean it’s not great.
My favourites wines of the day? I had a laugh-out-loud moment at the Mon Cheval table. I described a couple of their Pinot Noirs as “made by a genius, priced by an idiot” due to what seemed to me to be hugely under-priced offerings. We had a long chat about what we’ve been up to since I last caught up with Graham and Deborah Pearson, but the immensely impressive wines are a constant.
I’ve said it before (yes, I know), but you can’t go past the Puriri Hills Pope 2020 – this is an elegant but powerful wine that I gave a score of 97/100 on release. And, know what.. it’s getting better every time I taste it subsequently. It was good to have a natter with Toby Gillman, and his Gillman Vineyard 2019 was marvellous. I do think that it is the best wine coming out of Matakana these days – and then I walked across the other side of the room and found a label that was new to me – Omaha Hills, also from the Matakana region. Also really good. The Red Blend was firm, and brooding – but it was the Omaha Hills Syrah 2019 that really stood out. I’m going to chase that down for my Tasting Table events.
I had to try the new ‘Wine Dog’ release from Valli – Valli ‘Charlie’ Rosé 2026 which is a smash-able Pinot Noir-based Rosé, with ripe, crunchy cherry and redcurrant fruit, and zesty acidity. A Syrah from Te Motu wears the new livery (which I love) – replacing the Dunleavy label. Te Motu ‘The Grafter’ Syrah 2024 takes fruit from the Frenchman’s Hill vineyard (and their own Estate). Spicy, rich and bloody, with great ageing potential. A great example of what Waiheke does very well. Julz from Collaboration had three different Chardonnays – the pick of which, for me was the one made in a sandstone jarre – Collaboration Verdant 2025. Citrus, oatmeal, salinity and texture – it has to be something good to make me choose it over her classic ‘Aurulent’ expression.
I had been at a fabulous tasting of Chateau Rayas this week, and during conversations around that table had mentioned a couple of labels, or makers that are both here today. Hans Herzog makes beautiful ‘slow’ wines – that take time to grow and make, but also to evolve and age. Hans Herzog Sauvignon Blanc 2019 was probably my favourite white of the evening. Such structure, elegance and texture. The other label was Yangarra – and I had specifically talked about their ‘High Sands’ Grenache, which they didn’t have to show today. The Yangarra Circle Grenache 2024 is in a ‘nouveau’ style with energy, juiciness and exhuberance that is easy to like.
