Craggy Range Director David Peabody, and winemaker Ben Tombs presented the release of the four wines in Craggy Range ‘prestige’ selection from the 2021 vintage. The Chardonnay Les Beaux Cailloux is now back in the range (since 2019) alongside fellow Hawke’s bay wines – Syrah Le Sol and Bordeaux blend Sophia, plus Martinbrough Pinot Noir Aroha. The Chardonnay returns after a few years where the vineyard was replanted due to leaf roll virus.
Last year Craggy Range joined Bordeaux négociants network La Place de Bordeaux, mixing with the ranks of some of the world’s most renowned wines. David explained that La Place ‘made sense’ for Craggy with the estate focused on expanding its distribution reach within the world of fine wine. Also, at this years ProWein expo in Germany, their Syrah Le Sol featured on a list of ten “Must Try wines” given to MW students visiting the show. So it seems that the wider world of wine is now taking note of what this fine wine label is producing.
The 2021 vintage of Les Beaux Cailloux was made in tiny quantities where the system of “berry and barrel selection must be ruthless”. Looking towards the style development of Chardonnay across the ditch in places like Yarra Valley, and a nod towards Old World expressions in Meursault sees an elegance and restraint apparent in the glass. Despite a warmer vintage, there isn’t an over dependence on ripe fruit – rather a savouriness and citrus-led character throughout. The nose starts off quite flinty, with grapefruit, brioche, saffron, lemon peel, tarragon, cashew nut and marmite. The palate is fairly tight, showing a racy acidity, a pinch of pepper, and a border of toasty new oak. The finish is pithy, dry and clean.
Perhaps their best known wine (internationally at least) is the Aroha Pinot Noir from Te Muna Terrace in Martinborough. As a wine that fits into the Prestige Collection, the style of this is quite brave – steering away from the big extraction, big oak, big body that you might expect from a top tier Pinot. Now, I understand that lighter colour doesn’t mean lighter flavours and I’m happy with this style and direction. Perfumed with blueberry, cinnamon, bramble, elderberry and pretty floral top notes – this is an eloquent whole-bunch influenced expression where the aromatics are so important and set the tone. Fine, soft and silken tannins underpin some really plush fruit with lots of pop and crunch through the palate. Super acidity and no obvious oaky notes despite 14 months in oak). Delicious straight off the bat – a reflection of the new trials towards earlier drinkability.
Syrah from Hawke’s Bay is gathering such a good reputation (despite the tiny quantities made) that the wine I’m most keen to try is Le Sol. Pinot-like in its level of extraction, whole berry and bunch style, and floral aromatics, it is a wine that is arguably our most regionally-identifiable after Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc. Intensely aromatic, with robust purple fruit – boysenberry, damson, tamarillo and then a savouriness of black olive, terracotta, seeded toast, then some orange rind and topped off with a delicate floral violet and lilac note. There is a good edgy balance and interplay with the acid and dusty tannin before settling into a long, sweetening finish.
The last wine to taste is perhaps the most approachable of the set – Sophia. A smoky perfume announces the Cabernet Franc element here, with a peaty warmth that sets the tone, hovering over some ripe plummy Merlot (which is three quarters of the blend) character. A vibrant purple-ruby colour. Lush, youthfully open and fresh. But look for a density and power as you take a sip. There is silky tannin that is a match to that bold perfume, and a depth that develops as you go. A wine of good length and with a distance of finish to match. Good cellaring potential obviously, but so primed for a glass right now.
