Today I’m tasting a selection of wines from Dave ‘Bro’ Mackintosh – described as “wines made with creative instinct and minimal intervention”. The label Kenzie is one of a small gang of small, independent producers in Hawke’s Bay who are gradually pushing the boundaries – not of authenticity – but certainly styles of wines that this region has traditionally been known for. I attended a tasting of Hawke’s Bay wines last year where the presenter suggested that ‘there’s hardly any new wines being made in Hawke’s Bay’ and basically plied the attendees with wines from the old guard. I find that not only mis-informed, but downright dismissive to the likes of Kenzie, or Amoise, Halycon Days, Village Vineyards, Petane and The Supernatural (and others).
We start with Waiohinganga Chardonnay 2022 – a wine from the Petane vineyard in Esk Valley. A wine in the tight, lean styles that Australia has been crusading for a few years (and which Dave makes in Yarra with his Arfion and Salo labels). This expression is slowly emerging in Hawke’s Bay – with a couple of other, dare I say it, Aussie winemakers at Helio and Craggy Range in particular turning heads. Lemon, lime and white nectarine are given crunch and focus alongside savoury notes and that electric tightness is a real feature. It has full malo but retains a jazziness and texture with real brio. 94pts
The Mangatahi Chardonnay 2022 is sourced from the Osawa vineyard in Mangatahi – next to the excellent Two Terraces vineyard. This glacial river terrace has a layer of ashy volcanic soil and has a more minerally feel to the body. No malo here but the full solids, warm ferment and 10-15% new oak puncheons does give a rounder plushness to the palate. Still a tautly coiled wee beastie, with a grapefruit and lemon peel edge, with tangy acidity, but slightly softer and more ‘ready’ right now. 93pts
Smokestack Lightning 2022 is a skin-fermented Gewurztraminer, also from the Osawa vineyard in Mangatahi that spent 70 days on skins. A hugely aromatic nose that does show some of the rose petal typicity of the varietal, but takes a very savoury path through the palate. Fennel, cardamom, nori and green olive sit happily next to mandarin and ginger flavours. Dry, spicy and mouth-watering, with a long pithy finish. 91pts
The first red I didn’t note the name of (or take a photo) but it is a Heretaunga Syrah 2022 from Roy’s Hill. 100% destemmed and with a slow 22-day maceration, this is Pinot-esque. Light-bodied with a fresh elegance. Dry and supple, with soft tannins and a stretchy feel to the palate. Rhubarb, raspberry and warm terracotta notes. Something new – I’m not quite sure where this fits in – which is a good thing! 89pts
River Flow 2022 is a Merlot-Cabernet Franc blend from the Paritua vineyards in Hawke’s Bay. Bright garnet-red in the glass, with fresh, lively aromatics that speak of the varietals in the wine. A splay of plum, cranberry, liquorice and blackberry fruits mingle with herb and spice flavours. Light to medium bodied – confident and silky, but also fleshy and succulent. The acidity is key here, giving a perky bounce through the palate, so that the supple tannin sits in the background, forming the spine. A smoky incense seasons the finish, dry and generous. 92pts
