Here’s wine I first tasted at the excellent ‘Ruled by Flavour’ Expo of South Australian artisan producers – https://winefolio.co.nz/?p=6973. Colleague Gabor Sareczky wrote – “Fiano is hot right now in Australia, and South Australia is very much to the fore with this. Hipster winemakers like Unico Zelo ‘River Sand’ 2020 Fiano illustrate even the humble Riverland needs to be taken seriously when in the right hands. A perfect example of taut, saline modern wine”.
From the organic Bassham Vineyards in Barmera, in the heart and the heat of the Riverland, this Fiano is a type of wine that is tricky to find in New Zealand. Albarino would perhaps be the closest we’re used to. A straight varietal, we often only get this briney, textural style in white blends from hip natural winemakers. Lovely aromatics of grapefruit, dried apple rings, apricot, lime, almond and lemon blossom. An attack of salinity sets the mouth salivating – juicy and pithy. I’d drink this well chilled and serve as an aperitif with something spicy, generous flavours. Leaves a lovely spiky, herbal-flecked length on the finish. 90pts
