A very limited quantity wine, from a one hectare block of Chardonnay at the upper end of Escaroth Vineyard’s north-facing slopes in Marlborough’s Taylor Pass. Strikes a balance between ripe peach, grapefruit, red apple and cashew entwined with a flinty struck-match note that persists into the palate. An intriguing, complex nose, but won’t suit everyone – a colleague found burnt rubber, I also got a flicker of incense. The palate is brimming with character – a saline acidity gives a superb drive and line here. The oak sits up but time will smooth this out from this young wine, and there’s a super minerality running as a seam through the core. Complex, tense and packed with an energetic opulence. The long finish has that lovely pithy drying note of good Chardonnay. 94pts