I’ve heard the stories of past editions of this wine expo from friends in the know, but this is my first visit to the Art of Wine show. Looking down the list of wineries I’m expecting some real pyrotechnics – from Old and New World. As someone with a background in, and love for, the Arts, I totally get the concept of teaming up with the Gow Langsford Gallery and Stark White to showcase fine art alongside fine wines. It’s not every day you’ll get to contemplate the complexities of a Valli Waitaki Pinot and a John Reynolds canvas at the same moment.
I’d have liked to see this in a more intimate venue – but the venerable Shed 10 on the Wharf does exude some real character and has plenty of space. There’s a lot to get through. I didn’t get round everyone. To be fair there was a bit of chatting and some contemplating – not just the art and Pinot, but some robust discussion on the various wines at hand.
We started with Champagne. You do that. Joseph Perrier started in 1825, and I would suggest that they are known for a lighter ‘aperitif style’ which puts them in some excellent company – Bollinger, Perrier-Jouet, Krug perhaps. The Cuvee Royale is a bright start to the day – a frothy mousse of bubbles, and a slice of acidity and yeasty brioche. The Jean Milan Grande Reserve is a step up however. Both delicious, and both offering different expressions of Champagne, with verve and style – and Grand Cru champagne is a decent way to kick off what turned to be an afternoon of very high quality all round.
White wines were a real mixed bag today – not in terms of a standard – but a great range of things to try across styles and varieties, with lots of new ones. One that stood out in particular was the white Pinot Noir from Andrew Donaldson at Akitu. Made from Pinot Noir (it is all they grow) but made like a white wine, it is dry, intensely minerally, with a dance between phenolic and acid. Add in some white peach, rosehip and apple skin, and it is a winner. (More on their red Pinot Noir later).
Chardonnay was excellent – from Steve Flamsteed at Giant Steps we had the Sexton single vineyard 2019 Chardonnay. Crisp, with a tightly green acidity but with density and breadth into the palate, and a lovely marzipan note on the finish. Valli had the superb Waitaki Chardonnay – Grant Taylor describes this as ‘his favourite Valli wine’. Not sure about that, when you look at their wonderful Pinots; but it is a belter – and showing so much more depth than at our recent Top 10 tasting. One wine that really stood out though was the Corofin Chardonnay from the Brawn Vineyard on the Wairau Valley floor in Marlborough. Wow, what a well-made subtle, elegant tastebud sensation this is. One to look out for. I will.
In other whites, we had a cornucopia of choices. Just stopping at Hans Herzog gives you plenty to try – but don’t go past their Rhone-style blend ‘Mistral’ – a saline, nutty, minerally, juicy all-at-once confounding wine. Hard to get this specifically European expression in New Zealand, and Hans is a master of that understated, less-shouty style of wines. They need time to get into, but very rewarding and unique. Schubert had their two styles of Sauvignon Blanc – one a little calmer than the other, but if one is wonderful, the other is delicious (more here > https://winefolio.co.nz/?p=6526). I also liked the SBS white from Cullen in Margaret River. Like Schubert – not a winery that springs to mind with whites, but this is very, very good too. Again, more European in style, like a white Bordeaux, with the Semillon adding a touch of finesse to the dry, salty Sauvignon Blanc.
Reds had a bigger shout here this afternoon. You could struggle to find a poor one. The exception would be at Puriri Hills. They had their 2015 Pope and Harmonie du Soir wines which are so tight and bold in tannin that anyone would be kidding themselves to think of opening anything this young – but I guess with some double decanting and a long evolution overnight in a decanter, these could open up sufficiently to be enjoyed. I had a 2010 Pope recently and at 12 years old it was a baby – I’ll wait another twelve I think. It’s not these that were the problem though for me – they had a pair of 2018 reds that were very average – I really don’t see how serving these to the public is going to enhance their brand. Apparently they ‘lost their canopy’ and these thin, lacklustre reds was all they could manage to make. I’d lose the wine. I tipped these out.
Much better fare was to be had around the room. The Valli Pinots were excellent – you can see why the big shows in London are gaga over these – and in demand to the extent that they are a bit hard to get hold of in New Zealand. This was my first try.
Schubert and Herzog’s Pinot are both also very very good – the Marion’s Vineyard 2020 in particular. Ma Maison isn’t a label I encounter too often – Larry McKenna has good things to say about the vineyard (and now, a hand in managing it) though. The two Pinot Noir were classic Martinborough – bloody, earthy and savoury, but with plump fruit and bold oak. The 2018 showed a lovely pop of bright fruit and zing of acidity; the 2019 ‘Two Lawyers’ had more old school darkness and depth to it.
The pair of Akitu Pinots were also excellent – I’ll be visiting the Wanaka vineyard in a few weeks time. The A1 has 40% whole bunch and alongside a spicy perfume there’s a lovely black tea tannic edge. Solid wine, with concentration and backbone. The A2 is more ethereal, silky and intense. Good acidity and a jazzy, vibrant mid-palate. I also had a decent french Pinot – from Francois de Nicolay – a simple but yummy Bourgogne and a lean, zesty Chablis too.
For Bordeaux style reds – you had your pick of the Margaux-style Cullen ‘Diana Madeline 2020’, or the more Pomerol-leaning ‘Harry’s Monster’ from Giant Steps. Of course, Toby Gillman only had one wine to show – but what a cracker it is. Gillman Vineyard Red leans into my favourite varietal – Cabernet Franc to lead his wine, and it is a smoky, herbal, forest-floor scented beauty – the best Matakana wine you’ll find, in my opinion.
Rory Dunleavy took us through some of the Te Motu recent releases – they do a great, simple range under the Dunleavy label that’s easy to love, easy to drink and not big on the pocket – the Shed Rosé and The Strip Cabernet/Merlot are great everyday wines. Of course Te Motu, Kokoro and now Kuikui will set you back a bit more, but these wines will outlast me. They don’t rush them out, and have an enviable back catalogue.
A quick run through the others to round things out… some really interesting and different in-a-good-way spanish wines from Dosterras in Montsant, and those Goru wines with the amazing labels from Jumilla. Gutsy, robust and full of life. I particularly love these wines with food – in a restaurant with someone else cooking is even better. Chene Bleu from the Rhone are over-priced but good quality ‘natural’ wines. Grenache-heavy, the flagship Abelard and Heloise are precise, spicy and earthy, with classic raspberry notes. Von Winning had a lovely riesling. Those germans sure know how to make it. And they called it Win Win. Now that’s a win.
