There is a movement in Marlborough in the last few years seeking to showcase the different aspects of vineyards located throughout the different areas of ‘Marlborough’ as a whole, and what that shows in the glass. This has led to some excellent sub-regional expressions of wines recently – none more so than the Rohe (meaning ‘territory’ in te Reo Maori) series from Rapaura Springs.
This is the second year that I have had the opportunity to review this series. The Pinot Noir and Sauvignon Blancs I’m tasting are not only top-notch drinking, but have quite distinct voices that define them. The Sauvignon Blancs come from Blind River, Dillons Point and Rapaura and the terrain, aspect and climate all deliver excellent fruit with subtley unique characters, that the winery then craft into reflections of these sites. The 2022 season in the region was wetter – breaking a run of drought years – than usual but warm in the summer, then cooling into harvest, enabling the acidity to be retained in the fruit.
2022 Rohe Dillons Point Sauvignon Blanc
Crackingly crisp and pungent, the aromas lifting from the glass at full-throttle. Blackcurrant, acacia, passionfruit, grilled pineapple, sliced fennel and even a little funky sweatiness. Intense, juicy and with a piercing salinity and quartzy acid line. Mouth-watering and vibrant – more tropical flavours come through, with melon and yuzu notes. Really ripe and yet elegantly concentrated and dry. A pithy, tannic note of grapefruit and white pepper adds tension and interest to the chiselled, energetic finish – long and sweetening. A belter of a wine, which gave us plenty to talk about. 94pts
2022 Rohe Blind River Sauvignon Blanc
Youthful and bright, with an energy to the aromas of lime zest, mandarin, freshly cut grass, melon, chamomile and grapefruit. A nibble of spice, like an apple pie crust.
Intense and popping with crisp, mouth-watering acidity into the palate. Good concentration and some weight alongside those ripe, citrus flavours. A luscious, rounded texture mellows the wine after that energetic opening. Excellent drive from the acidity leads to a really focussed, long, dry finish. 93pts
2022 Rohe Rapaura Sauvignon Blanc
A herbacious nose, filled with lively green-tinged characters. Gooseberry, key lime pie, crushed herbs, greengage, pea pod, passionfruit and lemongrass. The palate has purity and clarity, with a brisk acidity and vibrant lush fruit. In a more typical Marlborough sauvignon style, with a lovely play off between dry, green notes, savoury and then tropical elements. A lot packed into this glass. Good weight and texture, and a delicate balance into a lengthy, mouth-filling finish. Classic. 93pts
