At the New Zealand International Wine Show this year, I found that some of the categories were particularly strong. Whites – like Pinot Gris, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc, but also the sparkling class, really stood out. Looking over at my own notes from the days, and the subsequent results that came out, I discovered that a couple of wines I’d really liked came from one producer – Catalina Sounds.
So, I tracked down the Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc at the Awards Dinner again the week after… and yup, I really liked those! (‘Sound of White’ Chardonnay 2023 won the Chardonnay trophy). I thought I’d better get in touch with them, and had the chance to put a few questions to winemaker Matthew Ward.
Tell me a bit of your background and your path to Catalina Sounds?
It’s been a journey! I’m a born and raised 4th generation Marlburian who stumbled into the wine industry some 20+ years ago. I cut my teeth over several years at Seresin Estate with Bart Arnst and Brian Bicknell, transitioning from vineyard to winery where my curiosity and love for wine took off. From there I worked all over the world, focusing on cool climate varieties and winemaking. I’ve worked in Oregon; Pfalz, Germany; the 2010 and 2013 vintages at Domaine de Montille in Meursault, Burgundy and a year in London at a great restaurant called Chez Bruce.
Amongst this, I’ve worked here in Marlborough at Mahi and Wither Hills, before being tapped on the shoulder for the role at Catalina Sounds where I started in January 2020 – since then the rest is history! 2026 will be my 20th vintage in Marlborough!
I’ve heard people say it takes a long time to get used to a vineyard – do you find that true? Tell me about the specifics of the Sound of White vineyard.
It can take years to really understand the nuances and particularities of a certain site or vineyard. Marlborough can unfortunately get tarred with the “it’s all same-same” brush, but the more we, as an industry, understand our sub-regions, the macro/micro climates, soil profiles and management practices, the more we can tease out the diversity, nuance and quality in our wines.
Six years in at Sound of White, I know what the ‘general’ profile of the vineyard delivers in terms of the style of wines produced. What I love about Sound of White though, is how we are tucked below the Waihopai range which shelters use from the cooling easterlies and then being north-west facing it gets quite warm during the day but still tempered by our cooler nights. The higher proportion of clay in the soil, combined with the climate tends to create wines with an element of restraint, increased texture and savoury nuances.
Would you say that Catalina Sounds has a winemaking style/philosophy?
When Catalina Sounds started in 2005, the vision was to be amongst the best producers of Sauvignon Blanc in Marlborough. This expanded into producing several wines (Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Gris) that are reflective of the region, while building in a textural dimension – wines that are uniquely Catalina Sounds.
The obvious next step from there was to produce a small production, single vineyard range that was unique to Sound of White and really showcase the beauty of the Waihopai Valley and our property.
With a few new, smaller labels popping up in New Zealand – do you see a change in the landscape a bit – more diversity?
Yes and it’s really refreshing for Marlborough! The focus being on small production and quality is so good to see, as well as those behind the labels with enough grit to put themselves out there in challenging times. What’s great to see is a bit of a shift away from Sauvignon, as Marlborough can produce exceptional examples of lesser-known varieties.
I have impressed with what AMW is aiming to do. How do you feel the region is doing in terms of managing its identity? Has Marlborough changed much over recent times?
Marlborough has done a remarkable job establishing a strong identity, primarily centred around Sauvignon Blanc. Appellation Marlborough Wine has been a much-needed addition to Marlborough’s broader identity, where like-minded producers have come together with the shared vision and intention to champion our origins, integrity, authenticity and sustainability. Sustainability and authenticity are so key to the longevity of Marlborough.
Is there a moment in the winemaking year where you just ‘get a feeling’ for what’s going on / going to happen?
Yeah, there are those moments, but it’s more about navigating each season. Sometimes you think you know how a season is going to pan out; 2025 is a great example of that, where we had early bud break and quite a hot October/November, so everyone was thinking it was going to be an early harvest, but by mid-December the weather swung around and we had weeks of overcast, cool weather that slowed the rapid growth right down and ended up losing that head start.
What do you think are any upcoming trends, in wine?
The key word here being ‘trends’!
- Lower alcohol wines and alternative styles that offer lighter, more refreshing wine experiences
- Interest in indigenous and new or underrepresented grape varieties from lesser-known regions
- Alternative packaging – there are a few boutique producers offering wines in bag-in-box, with some really slick packaging.
What do think are the challenges ahead for the world of wine?
The biggest threat to the world of wine is climate change – changing weather patterns, extreme weather events and the shift in the suitability of grape varieties in certain areas.
- Economic instability – inflation, trade wars and affordability
- Consumer preference shifting away from the tried, true and traditional wine styles and marketing
Do you have favourite wines from other people/places, and think “One day I’ll make something as good as that”? Do you have any stories to tell about discovering those?
The wine and producer that had the most impact on me in recent years is a German chardonnay from Weingut Furst. I was introduced to them through Dr. Andrew Hedley who imports some incredible wines. Quality wise it’s up there with grand cru burgundy, but without the price tag. It comes from the “grand cru” Karthäuser vineyard on white shell limestone so there’s a lot of tension and minerality which I love in Chardonnay.
What are the biggest lessons you’ve learned? One thing you wouldn’t do again?
One of my biggest lessons/mistakes was from my time in Oregon. I’d been to a wild Halloween party in Portland and the next day I was draining and pressing off reds but forgot to take the “rocket” or draining spear out in my rather hungover state. I tipped the macro bin into the press, spear and all. Unfortunately, it put a hole in the bag of the press… then we had to wait for the Europress tech to drive up from California to replace it!!!
What is your favourite thing to do on a day off?
Spending time with my family – our daughter is 16 months old and it’s such a beautiful time watching her personality develop and to experience the milestones.
What was your favourite travel experience?
I’m so grateful for all the travel that I’ve done in my life – there are two most memorable experiences for me. Walking the quarry trail to Machu Picchu in Peru, at dawn, was an incredible experience. My most memorable wine experience while travelling was tasting with Aubert de Villaine at Domaine de la Romanee Conti in 2010. We started with a barrel tasting of the 2009 wines and then some incredible older vintages including a 1961 La Tache!
What’s your guilty pleasure?
Sweet treats before bed…
What was the last song you found yourself singing (to yourself)?
Tender by Blur, as our band is learning to cover it!
Your house, containing everything you own, catches fire. After saving your loved ones and pets, you have time to safely make a final dash to save any one item. What would it be? Why?
That’s an incredibly tough decision between wine, musical instruments and my coffee machine! They’re all replaceable though, so it would have to be a photo album of all my travels before the times of digital photos and external hard drives which makes me sound old haha, but I did a lot of traveling around the time social media was just emerging.
Who would you most like to share a glass of your wine with (and why)?
This has had me pondering, past, present, future. I’d love to sit down and share a glass or two with my Grandfather and have him tell me more about his life and time stationed in the pacific during WWII.
Check out my review of the lovely Sound of White Chardonnay here >> https://winefolio.co.nz/?p=13516
