THE viognier from Condrieu – considered by most critics as the finest example in the world – from the producer that ‘saved the Condrieu appellation’ from extinction in the 1930s when most farmers in the region were turning to potato and peas as crops.
A deep golden colour with green tinges to the edges. The complex perfume shows a ripe richness, with yellow peach, pineapple and melon, before a fresher edge of grapefruit rind, lemon and green apple, plus fresh herbs and honeysuckle florals takes over and really dominates. Quite fresh, with a zesty acidity and a delicacy that makes me wonder if this vintage will turn towards the unctuous depth that older Condrieu can show. The citrus notes persist and there’s a lovely waxy texture before a dry, lingering finish. 93pts
