A wine from Martinborough, but one you won’t find any more – tasted on an evening with a theme of “lost labels”. A dense burgundy red in the glass. A potent perfume showing a balance between savoury and fruit, with boysenberry, plum, white pepper, mocha, graphite, raspberry, salami and bayleaf. Given the years in bottle, I’m not surprised that a few secondary characters emerge, and the mushroom, mulberry and tobacco elements sit comfortably in the palate. There’s supple tannin and a smudge of cedar and spice notes from the oak forming a core structure. Plenty of weight and grip as you pass on to a satisfying finish of good length. 92pts