This is the fourth box of Chardonnay that Hawke’s Bay Winegrowers have put together, since the concept began with the 2019 vintage. Hawke’s Bay Wine had this to say about the wines:
“The 2022 Collection showcases outstanding quality, presenting a diverse range of styles that reflect the unique terroir of various subregions within Hawke’s Bay, and attests to the remarkable expertise and skill of the collection’s winemakers. Chardonnay continues to hold a significant position as a key regional varietal for Hawke’s Bay, boasting an internationally recognised reputation for quality.”
Cameron Douglas MS was again asked to select his personal top twelve wines from the 42 wines submitted for consideration from the 2022 vintage.
“I reaffirm my statement from this time last year after sampling the Hawke’s Bay Annual Chardonnay Collection, asserting that these wines rival many I’ve encountered from international producers, including those from Burgundy.”
The 2022 vintage won’t go down in history as an amazing one. Certainly having come on the back of a run of three very good years, from 2019 through to the 2021’s. However, the collection is a diverse selection of Hawke’s Bay Chardonnay, and fulfills the job of highlighting the quality of production in the region. This collection of wines will find its way onto the desks of important critics worldwide – where the region is probably known for a ripe fruit-forward style. For Chardonnay, I’d also add the characteristics of intensity, fine acidity, richness and palate weight.
Of course Hawke’s Bay isn’t just all about Chardonnay. At WineFolio we continue with our Top 10 Tastings, where we’ll gather a selection of the best on New Zealand and taste a single varietal – publishing just the Top 10 scorers. This year we’ve produced Top 10 Tasting results of Rosé, Pinot Gris and ‘Bordeaux Red Varietals’ and the next Top 10 Tasting of 2024 will be Chardonnay! I’ll be interested to see how many of the wines from this collection end up in that list?
Here are my thoughts on the wines…
Squawking Magpie ‘Counting Crows’ Chardonnay 2022
A classic Hawke’s Bay Chardonnay perfume, with generous citrus and stonefruit flavours, overlaid on hazelnut, oatmeal and baking spice notes. More exotic notes of melon and fig develop on the palate. A solid depth and a framework of subtle oak and zesty acidity is well-rounded, allowing the fruit to shine. That mealy note reappears in the creamy texture and slides the wine into a dry, pithy finish. 92pts
Askerne Chardonnay 2022
A super varietal-typicity scent, with meyer lemon, nectarine, golden apple, cashew, butterscotch and pineapple. Youthful and fruit-forward, with an edge of acidity highlighting the vibrant stonefruit and citrus flavours. Vanilla and spice from some well-judged oak deepens the palate, and there is a silky texture that seems to expand the layers before a broad, expansive finish. 93pts
Askerne Reserve Chardonnay 2022
Grapefruit, lemon oil, almond, fennel, apple danish and oyster shell on the nose. A fresh acidity immediately, with those citrus flavours accented and given real drive through the palate. Plenty of minerality with crushed shell and a dry pithiness. There is also a warmer, spicy side, that comes through later, and adds to the character and complexity you’ll find on offer. 93pts
Craggy Range Kidnappers Vineyard Chardonnay 2022
Showing a light, crisp perfume, with a salinity that shows on the nose – oyster shell, green olive, lime, dried pineapple, white peach and lemon curd. Lightly oaked, with just a hint of almond and breadcrumbs adding warmth to the medium-bodied palate. Acidity is linear and threaded throughout, carrying the mouth-watering sensation into a chalky finish of some finesse. 93pts
Paritua ‘Willow’ Chardonnay 2022
A youthful purity to the bouquet, the aromas of grapefruit, vanilla, lemon, chestnut and nectarine bounding from the glass. A core structure of crystalline acid is tempered by a little barrel spice, leaving the fruit to strut the stage. Energy with balance. A savoury note of preserved lemon contrasts with the creamy texture that enriches the palate, adding depth and complexity. The finish is dry, with a lasting length. 93pts
Squawking Magpie ‘Terraces & Gravels’ Chardonnay 2022
A bright collection of aromas of apple, flint, quince, lemon curd, peach, caramel and pear. Quite dry with a bite of acid and a nip of green with nettle, tarragon and grapefruit pith. The oak is quite toasty, but I found the palate settled into gentleness – almost delicate, where no one element shouted or unsettled the balance. A creamy texture adds to the smoothness, and the finish has good length. 93pts
Smith & Sheth CRU Heretaunga Chardonnay 2022
Nectarine, apple, wood smoke, citrus, fennel, oyster shell, jasmine on the nose. Medium-bodied with a wealth of moving parts – not least the delicate balance between the fine oak and the stony minerality, which both add gravitas and spine to the palate. The acid takes care of the fruit, with a lick of zesty tartness, with the plush texture adding rounding things out. Seamless, with a lengthy finale. 94pts
Church Road Grand Reserve Chardonnay 2022
Scented with lemon peel, hazelnut, peach, baking spice, popcorn and pear – and where the struck match reductivity is tempered by the rich fruit and lift of honeysuckle florals. Full-bodied, with a slice of toasty, spicy oak contrasted to crisp acidity giving good length to the palate. Packed with energy and verve, there’s plenty of concentration – and plenty to like – with a complex, bold layering of elements and flavours. 94pts
Bilancia Kaikora Vineyard Chardonnay 2022
A step up from the previous vintage that was in the 2021 box. White peach, hay, weetbix, nashi pear, lemon peel and grapefruit scents. Quite tight and elegant on entry, but quickly blooms and shows an energy and intensity. Some fruit tannin and gravelly minerality underline the ripe fruit, with barrel spice notes supporting. A salinity to the acidity that flows right into the dry, concentrated finish. 95pts
Craggy Range Les Beaux Cailloux 2022
An approachable perfume shows a savoury side, with marmite, tarragon and pepper alongside lemon, nectarine, grapefruit and greengage. Some herbal notes add a little green to the spectrum too. A measured clarity to the palate, which is taut and lithe. The acidity holds sway, giving a silvery spine plus bags of energy to the flow through the middle. A dab of oak – more than I’ve seen in recent vintages – guides the layered detail and framework. Densely packed and with a finish of good persistence. 95pts
Elephant Hill Sea Chardonnay 2022
Part of the new designations at Elephant Hill (Sea, Stone, Earth) showcasing their various vineyards. A complex and compelling aroma, with stone fruit, citrus, baguette, cashew nut and orange blossom florals. The palate follows the nose – a gentle seasoning of oak and the fruit accented by a busy rush of acidity. Ginger, white pepper and honeycomb notes bloom at the back of the palate, before an exhuberant but dry finish. 95pts
Tony Bish Skeetfield Chardonnay 2022
A wonderfully fragrant bouquet, with a direct boldness and power. Red apple, white peach, gunflint, grapefruit, biscuit crumbs, vanilla, lemon peel and spring flowers. The ripe fruit is framed by a warm note of french oak. Dynamic and energetic through the palate, with complexity and layers of flavours. Ginger, pepper and cardamom spices jostle with chalky lees influences – the crisp acidity delivering a line and directness. A riotous energy throughout, and a persistent finish. 95pts
