A producer I’d come across by chance, became an opportunity to meet the person behind the label last week. And what labels they are – the Chardonnay and Pinot Noir are two of the most beautifully artistic on the shelf, illustrated by Rachel Walker with the Kawarau Gecko on the red, and kowhai and honey bees on the white.
Donald van der Westhuizen has a day job as a viticulturist in Central Otago, consulting for several estates…and then turns to his passion of being vineyard manager, winemaker and caretaker of Moko Hills. The intention is to make ‘single vineyard’ wines that reflect what he regards as a special place. Wines ‘of the land’ in small productions – no more than 140 cases of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. In 20024, there is an extra layer to the brand now, with two wines under a label called ‘Kakano’ as well as the Moko Hills.
Kakano Chardonnay 2021
Using the Chardonnay Clone 809 (often referred to as the Muscat Clone), it is a medium straw colour in the glass. A very floral bouquet, with notes of orange blossom and spring flowers over a generous, pithy slice of citrus and stonefruit. A little caramel and smoky oak hints at a ‘Reserve’ style, but Donald tells me this isn’t – it is just ‘a different expression’. Grapefruit, lemon butter, melon and quince marry with that tighter, more juicy flavour to give a palate with energy and complexity. Acidity balances out the toasty oak, and a silky texture gives an even rounder edge to the finish.
Moko Hills Chardonnay 2021
From across blocks, and using four clones in this blend. A pale golden-green colour, with white peach, apple, tarragon and citrus flavours on the nose. Elevated acidity, with line and drive through the palate, quite saline and energetic. Contrasting that is a mouth-filling, plush texture. The two work well together, with a movement and play through the palate. It remains tight and quite serious in tone. I see this one evolving and broadening over time in your cellar. The finish also has a few phenolic, fruit tannin elements that aid the length very well.
Kakano Pinot Noir 2022
100% Abel clone, from Bendigo. A lighter density of ruby-garnet colour in the glass. The perfume is spicy, with pepper, cinnamon, anise and thyme. A bright crunch to the fruit flavours of raspberry, cherry and plum. With a ‘natural’ whole-bunch edge to the unpolished vivacity – quite agile and tactile through the palate – where acidity and fine tannins form the core. The tingle of spice persists throughout. A juicy, fruit-forward Central Otago Pinot with a twist; not just with that clonal singularity, but in style and expression.
Moko Hills Pinot Noir 2021
A selected blend, showing both distinct ‘Pinot typicity’ and a sense of place – you can pick this as ‘Central Otago’, and possibly even as ‘Bendigo’ if you’ve had some experience of the genre. Colour is dark burgundy, and the scent features damson, rosehip, black cherry, woodsmoke, black pepper and a seam of stony, iron-earth minerality. Tannin needs taming in the wilds of Bendigo, and the winemaking here is subtle – teasing out complexity. The bloody fruits benefit from crisp acidity, bending them through the firmer structural parts. Finishes with a flourish, long and quite luxurious.
