The 1999 Reserve wine from C.J. Pask – the Declaration was a Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot/Malbec blend from the Gimblett Gravels, by winemaker Kate Radburnd. An opaque inky deep red colour in the glass. The perfume speaks of the age of the vintage (25 years) and of the largesse of reserve wines of this era. Starting with a wave of sweet, vanilla oak on the nose amongst scents of mulberry, cassis, granite, black pepper, elderberry and plum. The oak and some quite sturdy tannins form the spine – the ripe fruits dropping in volume, and more developed characters of leather, truffle and cedar. The finish has a little cinnamon and baking spice to it, with moderate length – perhaps a little past its best? 89pts