A bit of an iconic Syrah – one of the wines to really put Hawke’s Bay Syrah on the map. I know more than one person who regards this as their favourite New Zealand Syrah. A nice opportunity then to look at a fairly recent vintage – 2015 – alongside a well-cellared one approaching that golden 20 years old mark – the 2006; side by side.
The 2006 vintage
Tinges of brown forming at the edges of the glass, otherwise a dark garnet-ruby colour. A quintessential Syrah perfume – blackberry, black doris plum, liquorice, raspberry, white pepper, paprika and an earthy savouriness. The tannins are silky and plush, with an integration into the body of the wine (and becoming the spine of it) that is seamless. A busy rush of acidity floods the tastebuds with the dark fruit as the spice really takes hold – toasted and warming. Smooth, elegant and yet with plenty of brio and direction left. Could go another five to ten years? 95pts
The 2015 vintage
A dense burgundy-purple in the glass. Youthful, vibrant aromas of plum, sour cherry, cassis, pepper, dark chocolate and violets. Tightly held in the palate, with a good ebb and flow between the fine tannin, juicy acidity and some charry oak – all taking their turn across the tastebuds. A little minerality shows at the perimeter. Savoury elements of tapenade, dried herb and dusty earth show up as well – a lot going on. Needs quite a bit of air – certainly decant this youngster – and the juice blossoms, over-riding everything else and delivering a glossy, complex drop. 93pts
