Wairiki Estate was founded by Brent Linn in 2008 after a long interest in wine and viticulture would lead him to look for a vineyard of his own. That place was found on the terraces high above the Ngaruroro river in the Maraekakaho area of Hawke’s Bay. The site was named ‘Wairiki’ – meaning ‘little water’ in Te Reo Māori. A small stream runs through the land in Winter.
In 2010, the family and a gaggle of friends worked together to plant out 1.8 hectares of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay vines on the stony river terraces with a thin topsoil over a gravel base. After supplying commercial wineries with grapes for a number of years they wanted to see the true potential of our land realised in their own wine label. The first Wairiki Estate vintage was released in 2018.
‘Grace’ White Pinot 2022 uses Pinot Noir where the grapes are pressed as soon as is possible after handpicking to limit the colour as much as is possible. The first pick from the tricky 2022 vintage. A very pale salmon pink colour in the glass. The nose is initially quite shy with just a light cherry, pear and lemon peel perfume. It blooms on tasting though, with a phenolic spiciness and a juicy clarity that is balanced with savoury notes of fennel, tarragon and nettle. A rounded texture and crisp, dry finish.
The Briar Rosé 2021 shows a vibrant copper pink in the glass. Made from Pinot Noir on the Estate vineyard, it has a bouquet of red berries and dark cherry, with an undercurrent of butterscotch and baking spice. A dry, mineral and savoury style that already has some age, and will develop more interest in the next couple of years too.
‘The Matriarch’ Chardonnay 2022 also comes from the 2022 vintage, where their Chardonnay delivered the best fruit. Whole bunch pressed to older oak barrel for fermentation with wild/indigenous yeasts. It has gone through full malolactic fermentation and the regular lees stirring has delivered a taut, well-structured and textural style, although the fruit is bright and ripe. The acidity is steely and pithy, with a touch of green to the dry finish.
The Optimist Pinot Noir 2021 is the first of two styles made from the vineyard. ’21 was a hot vintage, and the wine seems a little hot on the palate. The nose didn’t have much in the way of Pinot typicity – just a simple, herbal, red wine notes. The palate is also quite crunchy, with raspy tannin and tart red fruits. It feels disjointed and confusing… but – it could be one of those wines that you give half an hour in the fridge and it will come out smashable and juicy. To be decided.
The Redeemer Pinot Noir 2020 receives nine months extra barrel time after the selection picks that result in the Optimist wine. This one is identifiably Pinot on the nose, with cranberry, cherry and spiced plum. Again, there’s a raspy element to the palate – but the tannin is softer and more supple and generous fruit. Elegant and concentrated towards the finish that is dry and with super length.
