Using fruit from the Gimblett Gravels – one of the label’s top wines, and well cellared at over a dozen years. A dense burgundy red in the glass, showing little signs of age. Bramble, mocha, boysenberry, plum, white pepper, cranberry and a lift of violet florals on the nose. Leading with that ripe berry fruit, with layers of savoury and spice to find as the wine unfurls from its slumber. Flavours of five spice, vanilla, iron earth, tapenade and cedar all slowly appear across the palate. Medium-bodied and with a reserved elegance – this is not a wine that shouts. A spine of supple tannin and integrated acidity, without any overtly oaky influence allows the fruit to sit centre stage. A fine, silky finish. 94pts