An opportunity came along to fine-tune the palate and give it a bit of a work out. After the Awards Night at the New Zealand International Wine Show, I had the chance to grab a handful of samples that were left over from the event, and take a virtual tour through four wine-producing regions and their Pinot Noirs. With contributor Gabor Sareczky as a travelling companion – could we see whether the regions had distinctive identifying flavours; and would we be able to spot which wine was from which place?
The wines were served blind, and the two of us spent a good half an hour picking the wines apart. We each had our favourites, and one of us did, quite quickly, get the right answers in terms of what location each wine was from. But, really it is the question that comes back to my no.1 rule – delicious. It doesn’t really matter where the wine is from, as long as you love it!?
However, when you geek out over wines (and we do) – then things like place, terroir, clones, oak use, time on lees… and so on, do play a part – and we want them to. You develop a subconscious bias towards wines that have those elements that you, personally, enjoy. I was at the judging for the Trophy wines, and then for the Champion Wine of Show at a recent Wine Show – and the range of opinions is massive – people went for a wide, wide range of wines – as their favourites. And so they should.
Our thoughts on the wines, then the reveal as to who was what and where (and why, who..) There was a wine from Central Otago, Nelson, Marlborough and Wairarapa. They are all Gold medal winners at NZIWS this year.
Wine #1 A herbal-cherry, medicinal note on the nose. Serious oak and savoury in the palate with a beetroot, umami element that contrasted well with the lovely ripeness to the fruit. Weighty, well-crafted.
David guessed Nelson by default after choosing the others. Gabor went for Central.
Wine #2 More ripe fruit, but with a high acidity and a freshness to the body that seems cooler climate and with more minerality to the palate. Raspberry and strawberry flavours meld with cherry and plum, showing quite a bit of warm spice too.
Gabor said Nelson, David went for Central Otago (due to the acidity)
Wine #3 A deliciously plummy, herbal, savoury nose – the least ‘pinot-like’ of them all. Subtle and mellow into the palate. Some forest-floor notes, and the wine opens up nicely in the glass – adding some funk, mushroom and root beer notes.
David said Marlborough – Gabor went for Marlborough too.
Wine #4 Big colour and a bloodiness through into the palate as well. Cherry, damson and sumac spices – gorgeously perfumed. Drying tannins and lots of good oak form a core here.
For David, classic Wairarapa flavours (this was the easiest to pick) – Gabor agreed.
Wine #1 – Sheild Pinot Noir 2021, from Nelson. The winemaker used to be at Waimea Estate, then Middle Earth, which now seems to have become ‘Sheild’. David 1-0 Gabor.
Wine #2 – Eight Ranges ‘Trail Rider’ Pinot Noir 2021, from Central Otago. Made, we believe, by Matt Connell – the current Central wunderkind, from a vineyard near the Clutha River and Alexandra. David 2-0 Gabor
Wine #3 – Lawson’s Dry Hills Reserve Pinot Noir 2020, from Marlborough. Currently on sale on their website for $20, which makes this Gold-medal winner a bit of a bargain. An under-rated label that do a lot of good stuff, throughout their ranges. David 3-1 Gabor
Wine #4 – Matahiwi Holly ‘South Series’ Pinot Noir 2021, from Wairarapa. Another under-rated label – good to see this getting some recognition at the shows, as it has all of your classic Wairarapa flavours – led by tannin, and is simply delicious. David 4-2 Gabor
So, there you go. As the winner on the day, i’d like to thank a few people. Firstly Kingsley Wood and his team for continuing to put on a terrific show – and having such good judges, ahem.. His retail outlet – First Glass in Takapuna – is also pretty good – I recommend getting your fine wines there, as I often do. Thanks to Gabor for taking the ride alongside, and hopefully learning a few things (hahaha), and thanks to Mrs WB for the stewarding services, and the inevitable tidying up that was required.
