New Zealand winemaking has come a long way in a very short period of time. In the space of a couple of generations, New Zealand’s winemaking regions now produce wines that are frequently judged to be the equal of anywhere in the world – rivalling countries with centuries of viticultural history. Across the ditch, in South Australia, lies a state that is filled with an abundance of natural produce that is the envy of the world. It is where local wine history, stretching back to the 1850s, is the history of Australia – the heart of some of their best-known labels and home to some of its oldest vines.
At an expo at The Glasshouse event centre (presented by the South Australian Department of Trade and Industry) Iast week in Auckland, the WineFolio crew tasted through some delicious wines and produce. This was a new location for some of us – the event almost felt like being in McLaren Vale.
With 18 sub-regions stretching from Southern Flinders Range in the North to Mount Gambier in the South, there were 27 wineries and a variety of food producers showcased. Having over 180 wines to taste, the diversity of all the regions and styles was easy to recognise.
South Australia’s strength is bold reds and racy white wines. Many of the labels are well known, but today there were a dozen new discoveries and many absolute gems. But this proud Aussie wine region isn’t resting on its reputation – modern South Australian wines are intriguing. We got a sense that the younger generation of winemakers are pursuing a lighter style of red wine and embracing new varieties. Of course you can most certainly still find rich and hearty red wines galore.
Here are a few of the highlights…
Riesling from Clare Valley and Eden Valley are legendary. We can highly recommend the 2021 vintage of the Knappstein Ackland Vineyard Riesling. Made from 50 year old vines, this is a baby of a wine at this point, but super-classy, intense and zesty. An amazing match to the Yumbah Greenlip Abalone that was on offer across the hall.
An amazing 2013 Mitchell McNicol Riesling showed fantastically well. Fermented in older French oak Foudres (3000 litre barrels) and developing beautifully – exhibiting classic toasty, kerosene characters.
Our standout Chardonnays came from the Adelaide Hills. Two wine worth finding are The Hidden Sea Chardonnay 2021 – with a touch of malolactic fermentation and good oak, this will appeal to many. K1 by Geoff Hardy Chardonnay 2019 is magnificent. Full throttle peaches and cream with oak galore.
Fiano is hot right now in Australia, and South Australia is very much to the fore with this. Hipster winemakers like Unico Zelo ‘River Sand’ 2020 Fiano illustrate even the humble Riverland needs to be taken seriously when in the right hands. A perfect example of taut, saline modern wine.
Semillon, the workhorse of Australian wine, can be stunningly good…even from Kangaroo Island! 2019 The Islander Estate Wally White Semillon is fully barrel-fermented and really moreish.
Organic and preservative-free wines are very much on-trend today, and the likes of Organic Hill, Portia Valley, Twisted Sticks and Paxton are doing a fine job. Red wine is, of course, South Australia’s strength. Many producers are now embrace Italian and Spanish Varietals – Tempranillo from Wangolina or Ministry of Clouds Mencia. Cabernets from the Limestone coast are serious and well worth seeking out. For Langhorne Creek we can recommend seeking out Bleasdale and Metala.
Shiraz is such a stalwart there are so many good wines it’s hard to single out just a few. Dowie Doole has a cult following in Oz – the wines are terrific and elegant. Seppeltsfield is a must-visit destination if you make your way over to Barossa. 2019 The Easting Barossa Shiraz and No. EC405 Shiraz Mataro are sumptuous. Sorby Adams The Thing Shiraz 2017 was one of David’s two favourite “big wines of the day”. Simon worked as Chief Winemaker at Yalumba through the 1990s, making Octavius – and their flagship is in that similar vein of providing hedonism to the last drop! A big, heavy bottle, and a big, powerful wine. The boss’ other big wine was from The Islander – their ‘The independence’ Malbec 2015. The full monty – inkily black and dense, with heroic tannin.
Grenache won our hearts and minds… So underrated yet everything a modern wine drinker wants. Elegant, savoury, serious, and invariably a flavour bomb…. maybe McLaren Vale’s treasure trove. Highlights include Dowie Doole DD Grenache 2021, Dandelion Vineyards Menagerie 2021, and Vanguardist Grenache 2021 but my wine of the tasting was Seppeltsfield Great Terraced Vineyard 2020.
A mesmerizing wine so intricate. From gnarly old bush vines on the Greenock corner. This is a textural, savoury wine. Feels lacy, with wonderful bramble fruits, cinnamon to star anise spices. The length of palate and flavour just lingers on….Tremendous
South Australia makes stunningly good wines. We are planning our next visit in person right now. If you can’t get there, why not transport yourself there via a glass. Well worth a visit.
