With Sicilian wines becoming increasingly well-regarded, not just amongst those who love Italian wines, but for anyone interested in fine wine – I jumped at the opportunity to try a handful of ‘Etna Rosso’ wines with a Tasting group over dinner one mid-week evening. A review of the top couple of wines, and a quick round-up of what was on the table…
I Vigneri Vinupetra 2012
The star of the night for me. A deep ruby colour and bountifully aromatic on the nose, with cherry, rosehip, truffle, redcurrant and cassis – a lovechild of Pinot Noir and Syrah. Immense tannin! Even after ten years in bottle, the tannin here is simply majestic – chewy, muscular and delicious. Sweet fruited and dense – robust, even. Excellent levels of minerality – a gravelly earthiness. Returning to the wine after an hour, revealed a softening and change to a more delicacy and finesse. Decanting this beauty would have been better.
I Vigneri Vino Rosso 2018 Brother to the big Vinupetra, but with distinct family genes. Radiant with aromatics of cranberry, cherry, boysenberry and almond. Lovely floral lift to the nose and with wafts of dried herbs that followed through into the palate. Punchy, bold fruit flavours and, again, super tannins. The tannin-lover in me is in heaven. Bright acidity and youthful agility – dancing across the palate with bounce and vitality. Finished long and sweeter.
Of course, there had to be a ringer – with a half-opened bottle of 1998 Penfolds Bin 389 Cabernet-Shiraz winging its way around the table. To my taste, a little dusty and falling in drive and brightness – past the prime. Still with great structure and character. For those in the group with a mind to enjoy ‘aged wine’ this was a treat, and to be fair I used to be a drinker of wines over thirty years old, and still have some in the cellar. I just think that my preferences have changed and I’m in search of something with a bit more pizazz these days.
I took along a Tenuta della Terre Nere Moganazzi 2018, which sat nicely alongside two other younger wines, sylistically – the Alta Mora Etna Rosso 2018 and Frank Cornellison Munjabel Rosso 2019. These were mid-weighted through the palate with bright acidity and a crunch of red fruits – raspberry, cherry and plum. Perfume was important here – delicately floral, with rose petal, lavender and lilac found amongst the aromas on these three delicious Etna reds. I can see how Sicily has been described as the ‘Burgundy of the Mediterranean’ when drinking this style.
Palari Rosso del Soprano 2012 was much bolder and weightier than anything else on the table. Akin to a Super Tuscan, showing vanilla, leather and smoky, spicy darker fruits. With an obvious influence of french oak, but a lovely acidity, this was one for the fans of a richer traditional Italian style. Terrazze del Vulcano Cratere 2013 had some of the Etna bolder mineral character but tempered with a nicely balanced fruit and acidity. A good, simple, nicely aged red that coped well with the wide range of food and flavours on offer.
Definitely eye-catching and offering a fresh perspective on reds from this corner of Europe. I’m no expert on Italy, but do enjoy, I guess, a Chianti Classico as my go-to for an Italian wine; and have definitely enjoyed the heights of a Brunello, or a Super Tuscan when treating myself in the past. A few people view Italian reds as one of the best-value drinking in the world of wine; and if you add in something like we tried on this night, it is certainly open to discussion?
