After spending some time with Kate Radburnd during judging at the New Zealand International Wine Show this year, it was a lovely way to round out the week, to be invited to the first tasting of one of her new wines. The Syrah was the first wine by the label that stopped me dead when I tried it back in 2020, and, not surprisingly, it made my list of “Top wines of the year” in the same year.
Kate takes fruit from Bridge Pa – a traditional powerhouse region of Hawke’s Bay Syrah, and Mangatahi – which is further inland and has higher elevation for the Syrah. A canny operator with a wealth of experience, she knows what will go with what, and builds the wines she makes with just the right blocks to produce something special. I said of that original wines that “it somehow manages to be both full and open, and yet possessed of a tautness and tension” and I can’t find any better words than that to start to tell you about the new vintage either.
The Syrah is precisely varietal – for a cool climate, New World expression of the grape. A lighter tone than some – it’s a brilliant ruby-purple colour in the glass; but the aromas of dark plum, boysenberry, blackcurrant and cherry are ripe, plush and fleshy. There is an elegance and immediacy to the new one, but also a sense of underlying structure, that gives me the sense that it will age very well.
Rather sensibly, there is the 2019 vintage of the same wine is also on the table. It gives customers an insight into how the new wine might develop – and producers will sometimes show this at release tastings to offer confidence to potential buyers. It’s a smart move, and one I’m seeing more often nowadays.
I find the ’19 a little darker and voluptuous, with more savoury notes and pepper. This might be the ageing process of five years, but I like it.
I would regard the Syrah as the best Radburnd wine in the portfolio, but the Chardonnay does give it a close run. For example, I gave the 2019 Syrah a score of 96/100, and the Chardonnay from the same vintage a 95/100. Kate has brought two Chardonnays and two of the Merlot-Cabernet red blend along this evening too. The 2024 Radburnd Chardonnay I haven’t reviewed before – although I did taste it when I visited Kate, and daughter Penelope, in May 2025. I’ll give this a proper review in a few days, as I had the time to note down a few thoughts – look out for that next week.
The 2018 Chardonnay was also looking great with some age on it. I reviewed it in 2022 and said “So well-crafted and complex, with layers of interest – but overall just a delicious, more-ish glass of Chardonnay” adding a score of 96/100. It certainly hadn’t lost anything from that tasting in four years ago, and in fact, I’d say it is maybe even better. With the oak and generosity of fruit is pretty good for what isn’t considered a great vintage. Let’s say I’ll give that a separate (follow-up) review as well then.
The Bordeaux-style reds are also very good. Somewhere between Old and New World in style – with a firm backbone of fine tannin wedded to a softer texture and juicy acidity. Tonight there is a 2018 and a 2021 The ’18 is Merlot-led, as is the ’21, although having a slightly higher percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon. Both are still quite tight and lean – the palate squeezed and focussed. Plenty of muscle but also very athletic and toned. They need another five years in bottle to reveal their full potential. In fact, I’d predict these to be drinking well in 2036.
Radburnd has a Wine Club that brings the cost of these premium bottles down considerably, and other benefits. The full range is on their website www.radburndcellars.co.nz. They are also in the process of moving into what might be their ‘forever home’ at the old Limmer property at Stonecroft, in the Gimblett Gravels. I’ll be hoping to have a visit when I’m down in Hawke’s Bay next.
