For no particular reason other than curiosity (and availability of the two bottles), Steven and I decided to open two 1991 vintage reds from Hawke’s Bay the other day. Both from reputable producers, and both ‘Bordeaux style’ red blends – but neither would be considered top tier, or even ‘trophy’ wines. So – how would they fare?
I had to laugh when I saw the Te Mata Awatea – the label looked so pristine that I suggested it was a fake wine and Steven had printed the label off this afternoon. My Ngatarawa Glazebrook wasn’t looking particularly shabby either. Considering both will have been sat in cellars for 35 years, the presentation was pretty good. Two corks – in fair condition – were pulled, and the pair were in good drinking order.
The classic Cabernet/Merlot blend does rely a little on the Merlot filling the hole that the Cabernet sauvignon can tend to leave in the palate. The tannin taking shape around your cheeks, from the Cabernet, and the Merlot’s natural tendency towards softer fruitiness, filling the middle – across your tongue. The colours were showing some age in the glass – a browning off from the original bright, dark garnet red, and a light opacity to the Glazebrook.
Aromas were as you might expect – a fruity version of a European classic. Blackcurrant, plum and bramble led the way, with plenty of aged, tertiary notes of leather, mushroom and tobacco. Some sweet vanilla and a touch of green – woody herbs, mint and euacalypt. The Awatea had more freshness, with a lick of acidity still bouncing through the palate, and a little sharper flavour than the Ngatarawa, which was softer and lacked some energy. Both showed some nice, lingering, peppery spice.
You’d expect ‘texture’ in a 35-yr old wine, and we’re not disappointed. Almost silken in style, with a caress to the back of the palate. Tannin has faded, but what is there is dry and fine, adding a pinch to the finish. Elegant and well-rounded is the overall impression from these two. Certainly the Te Mata wine has fared better of the pair – but to think that both were priced as mid-level wines on release, it is to be applauded that they are drinking this well.
This is just my opinion, but I’d give the Ngatarawa Glazebrook Cabernet-Merlot 1991 an 88pts score, and the Te Mata Awatea Cabernet-Merlot probably deserves 92pts.
