Released in time for daylight saving every year, the Stolen Kiss has actually become one of those wines that is known by name alone. Which is amazing considering it is a rosé (“not a serious wine” I hear the geeks mutter) and considering that it was initially a secret project by winemaker Malcolm Rees-Francis that possibly might not have seen the light of day.
That particular pale salmon pink colour that it seems all rosé aspires to these days, is taken several shades darker by Rockburn, and ‘shock-horror’ there is also a wedge of flavour in the glass. Still identifiably rosé in colour, but with a shining coral colour, and made from Pinot Noir (this is Central Otago), it has an expected bouquet of cherry, strawberry, rose petal and dried herbs. But also takes its own turn with bubblegum, poached pear, red liquorice and candied peel. Off dry and with such juiciness that it feels almost medium in style, it is certainly voluptuous and characterful. Breezy acidity and a soft, creamy texture. This is bright, juicy and, the geeks are probably right – not too serious. I do think one thing though – it would be a great wine to serve with pavlova! And that’s not an easy plate to match. Or enjoy as an aperitif. 88pts
