A new tasting of an old favourite. I have shares in a company that owns vineyards – Terra Vitae – and the Twyford Gravels vineyard in the middle of the Gimblett Gravels is one of them. As such I have bought numerous bottles that feature grapes from the vineyards within the company portfolio over the years. I last tasted this wine a couple of years ago, and gave that bottle a 93/100 score then.
From Villa Maria’s excellent ‘Single Vineyard’ range – the 2004 vintage was considered a cooler year in Hawke’s Bay. A dense, inky burgundy colour in the glass. Richly perfumed with cherry, plum, black pepper, star anise, liquorice, candied orange peel and a medicinal green-eucalypt note. Very plush and generous into the palate, with concentrated power and a velvet texture. Quite decadent and voluptuous. Fine, lengthy tannins and a few savoury notes of black olive, leather and petrichor balance that ripe fruit. There is still enough juicy acidity to carry the palate, and touches of smoky oak add even more depth. The finish is dry and long – drinking at its peak after 22 years.
If you served me this blind and then told me it was a top Merlot-based Bordeaux, I would easily believe you. Sensational. Probably the best NZ Merlot I’ve ever tasted – far eclipses the bottle I opened two years ago. 97pts
