This is episode #3 of ‘The Tasting Table’ where I will be bringing a set of wines that I’m due to review – over to dinner with a few guests. I reluctantly cancelled the event in May after I caught COVID, again. Tonight we’re in Auckland city at Bistro Saine on a damp Wednesday. The idea is to have the sessions at a revolving range of restaurants, perhaps once a month, but certainly on a regular basis. Finding venues is certainly a challenge. The restaurant was busy and service was attentive and solved problems very well.
The wines are new releases – things I would have been sent to taste as a matter of course – so those attending get to try some new wines. I’ve curated the range of styles so that there’s a balance and flow to the evening. I try to have food landing on the table every thirty minutes or so – sometimes just a two-bite morsel, and other times a bigger dish to share. To start there’s the bistro classic – Chicken Liver Parfait with baguette, cornichon and preserve.
Valli Waitaki Riesling 2025
A pale silvery green colour in the glass for this North Otago wine. Not an overtly ‘riesling typicity’ perfume, relying on bright notes of citrus, freshly cut apple, white peach, green herbals and a distinct ‘ozone’ note as well, to entice you in. Youthfully tight and filled with energy, it runs a line of acidity straight through the palate. That acidity deals with the off-dry ripeness, leaving you to appreciate the chalky texture. “A beautiful start to the evening – like an aperitif wine” and “Really classy and with a sneaky more-ishness” were a couple of comments from guests. 93pts
Seifried Gewürztraminer 2025
A light golden-green colour in the glass. Much more varietal typicality here, with signature rose petals florals lighting the path ahead. Mandarin, lime, pineapple, lychee, ginger cake and baking spices on the nose. “Not too floral” was added. Off-dry in style, with a plushness to the fruit and a good level of concentration through the palate. A nibble of savoury, with a show of white pepper and root beer at the back of the palate. Drier and slightly pithy on the finish. “One of the best-balanced Gewürztraminer I’ve had from New Zealand” and “A very good bargain” 91pts
The next pair of wines get a dish that’s a favourite of mine – risotto. Specifically it is Butternut Risotto with pumpkin seeds, celery and saffron.
Pegasus Bay ‘Minuetto’ Semillon/Sauvignon 2023
This edition is Semillon-led, with approximately 70% Semillon & 30% Sauvignon Blanc. A translucent straw colour in the glass. The bouquet shows grapefruit, whitecurrant, apple skin, lemon zest, pineapple and salted almonds. A brisk, tart acidity is upfront in a well-structured palate with grainy phenolic texture. A richness of oatmeal crackers and baking spice develops – “it keeps developing in the glass” was one note – and the creaminess contrasting that initial juice. Finishes dry and with “great length”. 93pts
Blank Canvas ‘Tano’ Chardonnay 2024
Labelled with the smart black label from their range. Made in a 3,500 litre barrel, it is quite soft on the nose, with chestnut, apple, lime, white peach and grapefruit. With a good swirl, there is some vanilla and baking spice too. Bone dry, and in a classic, very tight style – I suspect that time in the cellar will be of benefit to this wine. A grainy lees-influenced texture and phenolic adds weight and character. “I’m loathed to mention Chablis but that’s what this reminds me of!” commented one chardonnay fan. “Old World elegance” appeared in the notes. 94pts
Moving on from the white wines, we start with chilled red wine. It’s a style that I noticed becoming more popular when I spent a couple of years managing a Wine Bar in Devonport.
Te Motu ‘Onetangi Nouveau’ chilled red 2025
A very funky new label from Waiheke Island pioneers Te Motu – a sign of the new generation taking the reins. Described on the bottle as “Best served cold and lonely” which is well-suited as we’d scoffed all the risotto by the time we came to taste it! Made of two portions of estate-grown merlot, it has a fabulous ‘pop’ of fruit. Light-bodied and direct, with a breezy acidity. A jube-like rush of raspberry, yellow plum and redcurrant – the juice quite chunky and bold. “A wine in its own category in the NZ market” and “Is it Beaujolais?” were snippets that I overheard around the table. 93pts
We’re at the restaurant on the weekly Steak night – ‘Wednesday Cut’. It’s a loaded table as Bavette Steak with three sauces; frites with aioli; carrot salad with honey & caper dressing, feta, candied walnut and plates of crisp salad all descend on us. Not there are any complaints. We move onto more traditional red styles to suit our protein.
Rockburn ‘The Barrels – Parkburn’ Pinot Noir 2024
Ten barrels chosen from the range made from the Parkburn Vineyard makes up this year’s selection. A dark burgundy purple colour. Darkness to the bouquet too, with cherry, plum, blackberry and redcurrant fruits. Savoury tones of thyme, prosciutto and pimento also rise from the glass. “A balanced expression – quite elegant”. Crisp acidity heralds a medium-bodied palate that has gorgeous fruit framed by spicy oak. Tension and structure underpin that voluptuousness, with whisper-fine tannins spreading out into a dry, persistent finish. One of our tasters thought “this will age well”. 94pts
Yealands Single Vineyard Tempranillo 2024
A Tempranillo from a single vineyard in Marlborough’s Awatere Valley. A gleaming ruby colour in the glass. The perfume is complex and compelling, with cherry, cranberry, tamarillo, orange peel, salami, acacia and souk spices in the mix. “Slowly developing red florals” is another note. Medium weight, with lashings of allspice, cinnamon, sage and toasty oak adding breadth. Acidity is key, with a brisk line and energy through the palate. Tannin is subtle, mellow and textural. An intriguing “negroni bitters to the finish” and another guest exclaimed – “What a difference to old Spanish Tempranillo this is!” 92pts
Church Road McDonald Series Merlot 2023
Merlot from Hawke’s Bay has long been a favourite in Winefolio Towers. Good colour – a dense garnet red and ruby. You need to be able to smell it is Merlot at first sniff, and this nails the brief. Aromas of plum, boysenberry and black cherry, mixed with a light medicinal edge and then dark chocolate. Ready to drink up now, with enough structure, weight and richness to the palate to match the generous fruit. This was served blind, with just a question of ‘what grape(s) is this made from?’ and not only had many fans, but a handful of guests guessed the varietal correctly. 90pts
Paritua Single Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2024
Single vineyard Bridge Pa Cabernet Sauvignon – from an excellent year. An inky dark burgundy/red in the glass. Cabernet character is woven through the wine, from the bouquet, to the palate and the dry, lingering finish. Blackcurrant is the signature, with some mulberry, cherry, damson and savoury forest floor notes. Quite pretty and floral too – not just muscle and grunt. Lighter than it looks and the face it shows, with glossy fruit, the tannin well woven into the seams, and a wave of acidity that carries it along. “A serious wine now, but will get better and better with age”. 94pts
Stay tuned for our next adventure, where the evening will head to a local place saving Vietnamese style food. We’ll see how we can match the wines to the menu and keep an eye on any spice! I do wonder how big reds will cope, but that’s “all part of the ride”. Till next time.
