Esk Valley ‘The Terraces’ 2004

Esk Valley ‘The Terraces’ 2004

A ‘Bordeaux style’ red blend from Hawke’s Bay – the icon wine of this producer. From the first vintages, winemaker Gordon Russell made the call that makes this wine a true field blend. The three varietals – Malbec, Merlot and Cabernet Franc are hand-picked in one day. He adds that “I decided that rather than make three small ferments, I would co-ferment and bottle as a field blend. I want you to taste nature and that site rather than my idea of what it should taste like. So it’s a wine very true to its vineyard origins. The notion of varieties is blurred”. Sealed under cork.

Probably close to a peak drinking window now, but the colour shows minimal sign of age – it’s an inky carmine red colour in the glass. Enticingly perfumed, with plum, black cherry, bramble fruit and liquorice, vanilla, woody herbs and peppercorn on the nose. Concentrated and powerful into the palate, where fine tannin, buoyant acidity and plush fruit entwine. Toasted spices and a touch of bitter chocolate hints at the oak that the wine matures in. The finish softens, with sweetness and juiciness, but has substantial length. A bottle worthy of its reputation. 96pts

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