A release of wines from the first vintage that winemaker Ben Tombs has been at the helm, as well as a significant milestone for the company – their 25th vintage. They saw a welcome return to fine conditions for vintage after two challenging vintages in ’22 and ’23, but the yield was still quite low – for Hawke’s Bay – after a ‘cool and unpredictable Spring’. Good concentration and quality fruit led to a minimal intervention approach in the winery, albeit with some new techniques now that Ben is in charge.
The company has announced new sustainability targets, as well as Organic management and regenerative practices in the vineyards. They aim to move to Organic farming by 2030, as well as achieving a 25% reduction in emissions and a 30% reduction in landfill by the same date. The next milestone after that is looking for zero landfill waste and net-zero emissions by 2050.
Les Beaux Cailloux 2024
A prized Chardonnay from two blocks in the Gimblett Gravels. Using Mendoza clone fruit (for the first time I believe?) and Clone 40, with indigenous yeast fermentation in one new barrique and two puncheons. I have seen winemaker Ben Tombs collecting and storing lees from one year’s Chardonnay for use in future wines – and this happened with this wine, re-using it and adding pre-ferment. Bottled unfined and just a coarse filtering. A pale golden colour, with enticing aromas of white peach, lemon curd, cashew nut, grapefruit, tarragon and sliced fennel. Youthfully fresh and energetic, carrying the palate on a wave of salty acidity. A touch more fruit tannin and phenolic this year adds complexity and bodes well for ageability. The oak is very well-handled – subtle but warming, framing the ripe fruit.
Sophia 2024
A blend from the Gimblett Gravels. As usual it showcases Merlot – this year it is 79%, with 14% Cabernet Franc and 7% Cabernet Sauvignon. Crafted at the Giant’s Winery in its own area, each block was fermented and then matured separately. Once blended it is returned to oak for another 6 months. An inky garnet-black colour in the glass. Cassis, plum and blueberry fruits with baking spice and lilac florals. A confident poise and suppleness combine in the palate, with long tannins and balanced acidity. Lush and abundant – drinking beautifully now on release, but with plenty in the tank to age gracefully.
Aroha 2024
Pinot Noir from Te Muna Road, Martinborough. The region saw a warm, dry season, making it a sensational season for Pinot Noir. Clones 667 and 114. All hand-picked fruit, using indigenous yeast. The Clone 667 had 85% whole cluster, whilst Clone 114 saw varying levels, and used some amphora as well as the usual French oak. Bottled unfined and unfiltered. A dense burgundy red in the glass. The perfume is quite lifted – spicy and floral, with cherry, blueberry muffin and cacao nibs. The palate echoes the nose, with that density but also a flow and pulse of energy. Seamless – to the point of being a little safe – towards the finish.
Le Sol 2024
Gimblett Gravels Syrah using the heritage MS clone from three different blocks. Each block kept separate and used a varied range of techniques. Block 10 saw 25% whole bunch in French oak. Block 11 went into an Italian Nico Velo concrete vessel, and Block 14 in a wooden cuve. Then French and Austrian oak – 29% new. Bottled unfined and unfiltered. The bouquet is equal parts ripe fruit and savoury with top notes of star anise, chai and violets. A sense of iron earth rasps the tongue, with a grainy minerality that is also in the tannins. It commands your attention, with a sinewy tannin grip adding spine to the tight structure alongside the bustling acidity and luxuriant fruit. A very confident and powerful expression of Gimblett Gravels Syrah.
