Mirae is the wine label that was started by the well-known international wine critic James Suckling (founder of JamesSuckling.com) after he bought a property with a vineyard attached in Martinborough. He was in Auckland this weekend for the release of the four new wines under the label, and to tell us a few of the stories behind it.
When he saw a ‘For Sale’ sign had popped up on Cambridge Road on the boundary of a plot that he recognised as the Kiwa Vineyard that Escarpment made (arguably their best) single vineyard wine from. He was stunned – describing the place “as the ‘La Tache’ of New Zealand” and was straight on the phone to the agent listed on the sign. In classic kiwi style, the person who answered said “Mate, I’m on holiday, come back in a month.” But when James replied – “that won’t work – I’m flying back to Hong Kong tomorrow” the agent could magically be there “in ten minutes time.” The rest is history. Just like that, the man who said he would never own a vineyard now had one of our best.
James reflects that after 45 years of reviewing wine, he now realises that the insights he’s gained from just three years of owning a vineyard could have been invaluable in his career. He had just pruned 1000 vines yesterday, and the vineyard that was planted by Graham and Gill Cleland in 1989 is now re-named Mirae – the Korean word for “future.” James admits that he didn’t know that the name of near-neighbours Ata Rangi meant the same thing in Te Reo Maori. It was fated that Helen Masters of Ata Rangi would offer to help make the wines. Another specialist that he has roped into the project is Italian pruning specialist Marco Simonit, who is helping to rejuvenate the blocks of old Pinot Noir.
The wines are made using indigenous fermentation and a combination of open-top fermenters, terracotta amphora, glass Wineglobes and older French oak. It was James’ personal interest in using the amphora and Wineglobes that persuaded Helen to use the techniques. The resulting wines are only available in tiny quantities and offer a unique expression of Martinborough Pinot Noir, and are joined by a pair of whites – Pinot Gris from the Luna Estate, and Chardonnay from the Clayvin vineyard in Marlborough.
In true WineFolio luck, I was already committed to a once-a-year gathering on the afternoon that this exclusive tasting was happening; so had to dash in and out in half an hour – and didn’t get to try the two Pinot Noirs. I will be getting my paws on those in the near future though. For now, here’s what I thought of the two white wines.
Mirae Pinot Gris 2025
James Suckling had the intention of creating a skin-contact style of Pinot Gris, with perhaps some oxidative fruit handling – along the lines of Alsace techniques. But once the decision was also made that the wine was going to be made in a glass Wineglobe, it became apparent that the result would be far less ‘natural, skin-contact’ that had perhaps been the intent. A bright copper-straw colour in the glass. Very pure and aromatic, with ginger, pear, lemon curd, apricot and nutmeg on the nose. Precise, fresh and yet with a weight and presence – but without any sense of residual sugar, into the palate. The texture is also vital, without any sign of oak, and, along with a little grip of fruit tannin, adds complexity and depth. A clean, crisp dry finish. Only 180 bottles were produced. 93pts
Mirae Clayvin Chardonnay 2025
A more straightforward expression of varietal than the Pinot Gris. Using the glass Wineglobe for maturation but adding a bit more traditional toast and spice to the wine through use of oak barrels for fermentation. Fruit from the clay-heavy hillside vineyard gives a bit of heft and body to the bouquet and then mirrors that in the palate. Ripe nectarine and red apple melds with fresher citrus notes of grapefruit and lemon. There are also culinary herbs, fennel and almond. The toasty oak here is apparent and welcome – the fruit soaks it up and what remains just cossets the juice, giving some spine and breadth. The plate is lengthy, with zesty acidity carrying to a mouth-watering finish with good persistence. 94pts
