Dry River in Martinborough started out as an aromatic white wine producer in 1979 before becoming perhaps better-known – as did Martinborough itself – for Pinot Noir. For me, these whites are still their best wines which, crucially, can age beautifully for over two decades. This wine is in a late harvest style – from the Craighall Vineyard.
A medium-weight straw-gold in the glass. The bouquet has a lot going on, but the sweetness is evident even on the nose, with honeycomb and ripe tropical notes of melon, mandarin and pineapple. The palate has plenty of zesty acidity to counter that fruit sweetness, with lime juice, kumquat and kiwifruit flavours. There is a nervy energy throughout, even as the palate broadens, with elements of savoury – fennel and white pepper – coming into focus too. The finish is well-balanced and has great length. 94pts
