A single vineyard wine, from the Gimblett Gravels sub-region of Hawke’s Bay. This was released from the excellent 2019 vintage and I tasted it on release – so today is the chance to revisit it after a few years in bottle. Many people will say that good quality New Zealand Chardonnay is best after 6-8 years in the cellar – so let’s see?
A pale green-golden in the glass – no real sign of age to the colour. The bouquet? It is fresh, steely and has a touch of struck-match reductivity to it. Layers of grapefruit, lemon and orange peel citrus, with warmer tones of butterscotch, cashew, nutmeg and nougat. The palate is full-bodied but lit with zesty acidity that gives superb drive and length. There’s no doubting the oak is also a factor here, with a layer of spicy barrel toast that adds to the complexity. It doesn’t feel burly or shouty though – it is a wine of generosity but also finesse. It unfolds beautifully, bringing a silken texture and elements of minerality and baking spices along to a lengthy, dry finish. A few years of life yet – maybe we’ll revisit in another six? 96pts
