It is last week, and I’m sat next to Aroha Jakicevich, the 4th generation looking after Glengarry. I’m reminded that where we are, on Jervois Road, is the original property that started the Glengarry brand, when Josef Jakicevich applied, and was granted, one of the first (of only two) wine-sellers licences ever issued in Auckland for the green grocery that he had opened the previous year at the corner of Jervois Road and Blake Street. So, it’s fitting to see Aroha here tonight. Her smile, at seeing the family place full and buzzing, lights up the room.
They have put together a great team for events at Glengarry, with Nick, Jared and Zach working in tandem to deliver a fun, informative, seamless evening. I see that the calendar also has ‘Jervois Supper Club’ nights planned. The team will look to put together chefs and wine labels to create evenings where no single event will be the same.
Back to tonight. It’s a tasting comprised of Blanc de Blancs and Blanc de Noirs Champagnes; wines made from Chardonnay or Pinot Noir. It’s rare to have an actual “tasting” of Champagne where you can sit and compare vintages, winemaking technique and grape expression side by side. It’s also a rare opportunity to enjoy exceptional vintage wines such as the prestigious Charles Heidsieck Blanc des Millenaires 2006 and the limited-release Bollinger PN VZ19.
We’re greeted with a glass of Drappier Champagne from magnum as the room fills up. On each table are artisanal cheeses to snack on as the evening progresses – and there’s not a seat to spare. Wines are poured in flights, beginning with a Drappier Zero Dosage NV and Charles Heideseck Blanc de Blancs NV. The contrast between Chardonnay and Pinot Noir wines is immediately apparent – which is, kind of, the point.
The Drappier brand is a pioneer of Pinot Noir. Coming from the South East of the Champagne region, there is an obvious Burgundian edge. Oak is upfront and toasty, and there’s a hint of Chablis to the wine. A bouquet filled with cherry, stonefruit and apricot. It is also quite biscuity and seems to have an aged, golden character too. Charles Heideseck are known for their stock of Reserve wines, and this first wine is mostly from the 2012 vintage, but has 20% of reserve added. I think they just started making this wine in 2018, but it is already a classic. Crisp, complex and generous.
Whilst the next two are both Chardonnay-based wines, it is probably the biggest contrast in pairings for the event. Delamotte Blanc de Blancs Vintage 2018 sits next to André Jacquart Experience Blanc de Blanc Grand Cru 2013. Delamotte is a sister brand to the top-end Salon label – sharing vineyards and facilities. A very exhuberant, clean wine with high acidity giving a racy line through the palate and fantastic length to the finish. The Jacquart has a certain amount of funk to it on the bouquet. Marmite, onion skin and cheese are all mentioned as the crowd get into it. This is into ‘Grower’ expressions now – moving on from the big house styles, with real character. Again, a hint of Burgundy, with oak (they use those Aquaflex barrels) and a lees-y texture.
A pair of wines from the same label get poured next. Henri Giraud Blanc de Craie NV and Henri Giraud Hommage au Pinot Noir 2015. Good to see some really modern packaging and labels that stand out on the shelf. In terms of value for money, these two deliver; and the wines are terrific. The first has up to a third as reserve wine, and has a a lot going on. Flavours of brioche, toast, crisp apple start you off, but then “pineapple lumps, green olive, hazelnuts” all feature in my notes! The Pinot Noir based wine is probably my favourite of the night. We’re in rich ‘Krug-like’ (one of the prestigious big labels) territory now. Cherry pie, honey, marmite, elderflower and baked pear danish. Quite toasty with substantial barrel/oak notes… this has a big personality.
No Champagne could probably be called an everyday wine – and let’s not forget that to most people a $50 bottle of wine is a once-a-year purchase. So, tasting those two special headline wines forms quite the finale to the evening. Bollinger PNVZ19 is the fifth version in this range from the famous Champagne house and features 40% of fruit from Verzenay – hence the VZ designation this year. The nose is quite savoury, with an earthy, umami quality, but also apricot, lemon peel and Kirsch. Tight, with refreshing acidity and a lithe, supple length to the palate.
Charles Heideseck Blanc des Millenaires 2006 has been slumbering and developing in bottle for a wonderful thirteen years before being disgorged. That lees influence sits front and centre, adding complexity to the already opulent palate. Chamomile, tropical fruit, baked pastries. The epitome of a prestige cuvée, it is smoky, toasty and quite gorgeous. Great persistence to the finish. A special bottle for a special occasion.
I’m looking forward to more nights in the revamped space. There is talk of re-opening the old doorway between this space and the Glengarry store next door, to use it in day time as well for tastings and wines by the glass. There are a few options like this opening across town, but this is the original. The future looks bright.
