There wouldn’t be many more than a dozen vineyards in the country that are regarded as such top-level quality that their names are instantly recognisable to wine fans and writ large on a bottle label. The Riflemans in Hawke’s Bay is such a vineyard. A pale gold in the glass, with a green coloured rim. Apricot, lemon peel, nectarine, orange blossom, pear, vanilla nougat, chamomile and lime zest on the nose. Full-bodied, with a crisp acidity over a richness of plush fruit. Framed with toasty oak, there’s a lot to see – with caramel and baking spice, oatmeal and autolysis characters as well as an enveloping creaminess. Drive is given by a crisply citric acidity and the finish is elegant and lengthy. 94pts