I tasted through the first Pinot Noirs from the Fistonich Family Vineyards portfolio this week. From the Ballochdale Vineyard, high in the Awatere Valley, Marlborough, that the company acquired in 2023. The vineyard sits at over 300 metres above sea level – one of the highest and most southerly vineyards in the Awatere Valley.
Čuvar Guardians Pinot Noir 2023 is the top-tier wine, which will only be made in exceptional vintages. Hand-picked fruit goes into this one – using clones 5, 667 and 115. A bright ruby-burgundy colour in the glass. Crisp, varietal scents on the nose – great ‘Pinosity’. Black cherry, cranberry, raspberry and plum flavours are highlighted with a savoury top notes of coffee bean, incense and star anise. Equal parts delicacy and power mingle in the palate, led by a flow of acidity, and backed by some smooth, fine tannin. Showing some warming oak notes and influence too – a fine, well-structured, well-made example with good length to the finish. 93pts
Čuvar Iris Collection Pinot Noir 2023. A mixture of hand-picked and machine-harvested fruit, aiming for a wine that is expressive of site and over-delivers on quality and complexity for its RRP. A deep garnet-ruby red in the glass, with a scent that matched spice and earthy notes with lush red fruits – cherry, bramble and plum on the nose. A fruit-led style, where the acidity gives keen drive and juiciness to the palate, but backed by a spine of chalky tannin and toasty oak. There is a tangy crunch to the fruit with plenty of youthful energy. A texture of soft velvet adds a silky mouthfeel, before a crisp finish. 89pts
Obliix Pinot Noir 2023. A vibrant burgundy-ruby colour in the glass, with heady and varietally-specific scents (that could only be Pinot Noir) on the nose. Aromas of blueberry, cherry, red liquorice, chocolate, strawberry, cinnamon, rosehip jelly and rose petals. Ready to drink, with both an upfront juiciness and earthy, savoury notes that jostle for attention, but balance well. A fresh and lively line of acidity, plus some warm oak spiciness. There is ying and yang; contrast and complimentary elements here and the whole is greater than the parts. Add in a lingering, spicy finish and this is well worth discovering, at a keen price point. 90pts
