From the Cadiz region, best known for the excellent sherries of Jerez, and named after a well-known pier that used to stand in Sanlúcar. This dry white wine comes from the El Corregidor estate vineyard, using Palomino Fino, Pedro Ximénez, Mantuo & Vijiriega grapes made in the traditional ‘Vino de Pasto’ style which includes a few months of ageing under flor – as they would with a sherry. Winemaker Willy Peréz is leading a movement to bring Vino de Pasto back from the history books.
A vibrant, deep gold in the glass, with flashes of green at the rim. Equally opulent on the nose – for a wine that is mostly cool-fermented in stainless steel, this is not a shy wine. Perfumed with ripe pineapple, lemon peel, dried banana, almond and jasmine, but also a little sapidity of grapefruit and nettle. Savoury notes continue, with fennel and green olive, plus a lovely tang of minerality. A saline acidity and just a toasty note of spice emerge too – complex and generous in equal parts. A dry, herbal finish with a zesty pithyness. Unusual and excellent. 93pts