A rare grape variety in New Zealand (best known in southern Italy) with just a few hectares planted – this from the Howell vineyard in Hawke’s Bay – made in the excellent ’20 vintage. A pale straw colour in the glass, with aromas of citrus, green melon, white peach, apple, nougat and jasmine on the nose. Dry, with a zesty acidity and the fruit notes from the perfume turning deeper and spicier. Orange marmalade, lemon honey and shortbread. An energy bolstered by stony minerality develops and is driven through the palate. A textural, elongated finish. 93pts