A new vintage of this Martinborough Sauvignon Blanc, which sees old oak – hence the Fumé Blanc label (and style). A bright translucent golden-green in the glass, with energetic and elegant aromas of citrus, blackcurrant, muesli, grapefruit peel and acacia. A tickle of green phenolics in the palate, which is firmly tight and concentrated. Crisp acidity accents the fruit – both succulent and piquant in equal measure. The oak here is notably less than previous vintages, and well-judged for that I think – with more finesse and balance. A rounded texture completes the picture, and a long finish arrives in no great hurry. 92pts