It isn’t the first time I’ve tasted one of Ollie Powrie’s wines. A year ago I was at a mid-winter tasting of Syrahs where a bottle was opened – I described the 2021 Syrah as “an excited puppy of a wine – not without its charm, and it did, to be fair, settle down a bit by the end of the evening. A pop of fruit and a nervous rush of succulent fruit, grippy tannin and a bowl-you-over rush of acidity.” This is however the first time I’ve sat down with him and gone through the range of wines – now bolstered by a second label – now numbering six in the range.
Starting with that new label – quirkily named ‘Orca Corca’. Named after an encounter with an Orca as a young fella, and then a dream… with the name suggested by a family member and much more besides…we have a white wine Orca Corca Bianco 2023. Turns out it is Sauvignon Blanc from one particular block on the Osawa Vineyard, that has been fermented in old barrels. A juicy edge to the palate – so clean it has a rawness. Delicate and mouth-watering, there are plenty of phenolic, lime peel and minerally characters here.
The range also features the Orca Corca Rosato 2023 – from Sangiovese (what else!?). I’m required to guess the varietal, and do not succeed. Fresh, bright and fun, it is the requisite shade of pale coral pink, but, again, has personality to burn. Apple skin, pomegranete, green herbs, cherry and rose petal flavours on a spine of minerality and energetic acidity. Dry but with good ripeness and a cordial-like note on the finish.
Orca Corca Rosso 2021 is the last in this tier, currently. Having spent over two years in barrel, Ollie finally thinks this is ready to be unleashed. Syrah, with 2.5% of Pinot Noir. A dark purple in the glass, with a bold, equally dark fragrance. Seems like it has a whole bunch component, but Ollie tells me it doesn’t… there’s a woody spice and herbal aspect present. The oak has integrated well, taking a back set to some epic tannin. Nebbiolo-like, with an orange peel and tapenade element as well. Very good.
The Chateau Garage bottles are swelled in ranks this year by a Chateau Garage Albarino 2023. Wild ferment, with both concrete egg and barrique coming to play. This is terrific. A smoky incense and savouriness to the aromatics and palate. Grapefruit, preserved lemon and slate are there too. Lees-y, saline and textural. Again, this has a wild, un-polished appeal that is a feature of Ollie’s wines. He clearly knows how to leave his wines alone and ‘do their thing’.
The Chateau Garage 2021 Syrah is a ‘single barrel’ wine – so, by its nature, very limited in supply. Black-fruits and savoury flavours meld together well through the mid-palate. Black olive, nori, peat, sage and liquorice bleed across the chewy tannin. Although very smooth and easy-drinking, there is still that pleasant rustic energy from the lack of over-working, filtering and fine-tuning.
Saving the best for last, there is the Chateau Garage Cabernet Sauvignon 2021. A wine that I’d heard was rather good, and so it seems. From the Cornerstone Vineyard, Ollie has made a wine worthy of that well-regarded site. Very ‘old world’ in direction, it has all the varietal signature of blackcurrant, graphite, bitter chocolate, mint, plum and bramble that you’d want from this grape. Showing great balance. A seriously serious wine. There is epic tannin – robust and punchy, but also silken and poised – structured for the long haul. Great clarity, good length.
Hi David
It was great to taste our wines with you. Thanks for the write up and positive feedback. Look forward to seeing you for the tasting in November.
Cheers Ollie