Trelinnoe Vineyard Chardonnay 2024
From a site that was the Cypress vineyard for the Lawsons, on Roys Hill – named for the owner’s historical ties to Cornwall. Interesting to note that each of the single vineyard Chardonnays in the range uses a different clone. Not by intention – the vineyards are all different, obviously; but it was just how it worked out – that each one supplied a different clone. Trelinnoe is Clone 95. Two of their SV Chardonnays are not 100% malolactic ferment, but this one is – a warmer site giving a different acid and fruit structure.
The aroma is less shouty-outy than many, with a dialled-down nose of citrus, white peach, ginger, pepper, almond cream and lemon blossoms. The palate shows broad shoulders and you can feel some volume in the wine. Clean, ripe fruit is carried by juicy acidity. An expression of cool climate Chardonnay, with focus and firm structure. Texture is key, with a delicate balance between the elements that starts to include savoury notes in the back palate – fennel and green olive both show. This should age very well, but drinks beautifully already. 96pts
Trelinnoe Vineyard Syrah 2021
I’m not convinced that good Hawke’s Bay Syrah needs much oak – if the fruit is good. The winemakers of this expression agree but add “then you’re naked – you have nothing to hide behind”. If I’m seeing any winemaking, then I prefer to see whole bunch in the wine rather than oak. Further up the hillside than the Chardonnay, Warren and Lorraine started taking the fruit from the vineyard and were so impressed that they kept a portion back for the 2020 Trelinnoe Syrah.
They’ve put in 30 years of hard work to get to a point where they are reaping some rewards – and you could say swimming against the tide with this Syrah. This is about fragrance and beauty. Lorraine describes the style as ‘a double-shot Pinot’ while Warren claims it is “not worked very hard”. It sees a long time slumbering in the cellar in a state of ‘controlled neglect’ before being bottled for release.
A bright, dark purple colour. The perfume is inviting and complex, showing raspberry, bramble, damson, pepper, orris root, salami, terracotta and violets. Youthful but delicious, there’s a simplicity and transparency here, that shows an experienced hand allowing the site to shine. A firm structure at present, which will soften with more time in the bottle. Medium-weight at most, the tannin is long and fine, acidity well-integrated, and merely a hint of barrel toast. A touch of chalky, crushed shell minerality adds some toothsome, al dente texture towards the finish. For now, 96pts, but this has a bright (and higher-scoring) future.
