A wine from the famous Gimblett Gravels sub-region of Hawke’s Bay – a blend of five red varietals – Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Cabernet Franc and Malbec. The label doesn’t exist now, but it was a popular and well-regraded wine when produced, winning a few awards and I can’t say that I’ve tasted a bottle that hasn’t been a joy to drink. It still pops up in auction listings now and then, and is well worth seeking out.
A bright dark ruby claret colour in the glass, with a deep, complex nose filled with blackcurrant, mulberry, black cherry, peppercorn, bay leaf, lavender and nip of iodine. First impression is this could be Australian in its bold abundance. Ripe fruit is elegantly framed with a char of toasty oak, but the core is even and well balanced, with fine-grained tannin in unison with integrated acidity. A smooth mouthfeel and plush weight to the palate carries to a broad, lingering finish. 94pts
